Fashion Display에 關한 硏究

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1994 生活文化硏究 Vol.8 No.-

人體工學 側面에서 韓國女性과 美國女性의 人體計測値 比較에 關한 硏究

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1996 生活文化硏究 Vol.10 No.-

錯視에 依한 衣服 design의 效果에 關한 硏究

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1993 生活文化硏究 Vol.7 No.-

Abstract By clothes the beauty between the man who puts on clothes and observers is pursued, and clothes have important roles in the attitude of feeling beauty and meeting the conditions. An optical illusion occured by lines of clothes makes an external form of body be ideal, harmonious and beautiful. The phenomenon of optical illusion means that things do not show themselves by lookers, but show by comparing and passing through a brain by an optical nerve, that is, to be recognized by connecting the visual view and judgement.Like this lines present an optical illusion different from reality according to the visual angle by the visual judgement. As the effects of an optical illusion, in lines and colors of clothing design the phenomenon of an optical illusion is occured.We get a spiritual pleasure by being recognized from other people the beauty of harmonious and beautiful clothes making an external form of body show differently.The phenomenon of an optical illusion appears differently according to length, space and directions of vertical lines and horizontal lines, or it appears differently according to positions and angles made when lines are divided.Accordingly, in forms of onepiece dress only one vertical line emphasizes height and length inducing eyes up and down. So, if buttons are arranged longshly in the front center of clothes using this optical illusion, person's height looks tall because the length is emphasized. And if a horizontal line is, the width looks wide because the line of the vision is induced sidely.For example, an onepiece dress without a belt looks longer than any other onepiece dress with a thick belt, so person's height looks long.Comparing horizontal lines with vertical lines, striped clothes of horizontal lines looks longer than striped clothes of vertical lines. That is, stripes composed of horizontal lines indece the line of the vision, so emphasize the length, but stripes composed of vertical lines make the width be wide inducing the line of the vision sidely.Like this the phenomenon of an optical illusion make the length and the width look longish and wide by angles and directions in any position of our body, and sometimes make clothes be tende.

高齡者 女性의 衣生活에 關한 調査 硏究

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1995 生活文化硏究 Vol.9 No.-

Approaching the age of becoming old age, to live healthfully one's old age is to put on suitable clothes according to the change of human body-investigating and analyzing what people want, their problems and demands on clothes. The results of investigation and analysis on this study are as follows. In the attitude of purchase place, a market turned upon as the best place in which the elderly women buy their clothes, and they wanted more money than clothes presents. People who belong to 60 ~ 65 years elderly women purchase their clothes personally than 70 ~ 75 years elderly women, and 70 ~ 75 years elderly women get their clothes from their sons and daughters than 60 ~ 69 years elderly women. From this investigation, it is obvious that the more their ageis old the more they depend on their children in buying clothes. In the attitude of a monthly income, the elderly women who make 200.000 won a month at least purchase their clothes directly, but people who make less than 200.000 won a month purchase clothes by their children. And in the payment of clothes cost, most people under 69 years elderly women pay the clothes cost personally, and many people over 70 years elderly women purchase by their children. The problems in the clothes purchase are as follows. Most of all, it is very inconvenient that most clothes are for the young. And secondly, more ready-made shops are needed. Accordingly, the problems of ready-made clothes appeared in the order of size, design, price, color and texture. The elderly women like soft texture and they like cotton best of all. In the attitude of the nightgown wearing, many people who graduated over the senior high school put on a nightgown than the man who complete under the junior high school. In the attitude of Korean costume(han-bok) wearing, most people think that it is for events like a wearing ceremony. Compared with Japanese elderly women, Korean elderly women purchase in markets 56.89% overwhelmingly, but Japanese elderly women purchase department stores 50.60%. In the attitude of the payment of clothes cost Korean elderly women pay by children, but many Japanese elderly women pay personally. In comparison Korean costume(han-bok) with Japanese costume(kimono), it appeared highly that 『han-bok』is used only for events like a wedding ceremony, but 『kimono』isn't used entirely. Investigating and analyzing the actual condition of the clothing habits like this, the elderly women can live comfortably in their old age.

裝飾藝術과 Hair Style에 關한 硏究 : 18世紀를 中心으로 Focused in 18th Century

許甲暹 誠信女子大學校 生活文化硏究所 1992 生活文化硏究 Vol.6 No.-

The ornamental art was expressed for the linear beauty to hair style as a motif for rocaille, called one of ornaments in 18th century. The living activity of ornamental art is representative of nobles focused on the Royal court as a means of characteristic expression with the form for such as intrior decoration, costume design, hair style and so forth. The hair style with the costume design made within the interior space for linear beauty, and it was representative of decoration as the ornamental art of interior space. The hair style and costume design was decorated as an important motif for the human body, and it had played an important role of ornamental art in 18th century. Hair style and costume design of Rococo style can be understood through the ornamental beauty appeared on noble woman in 18th century. The characteristic of ornamental art even for hair style and costume design is aimed at understanding the better knowledge of relation between the idea for the fashion design in mass production.

衣生活과 美意識에 關한 調査 硏究 : 職業女性을 中心으로

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1989 生活文化硏究 Vol.3 No.-

The aesthetic value which is built up through human's instinctive needs and the aesthetic experience of creative art comes to from beauty through our sense in daily life. The aesthetic conscioueness does not say that the existence of artistic work itself means beauty. When human expresses his aesthetic sensation resulting from its beauty, for the frist time, real bearty comes to be formed. We can see the desire which tries to create beauty through human's instinctive aesthetic experience and the aesthetic consciousness alway exitsting in our life. The purpose of this study is to examin the aesthetic consciousness of career wonen. Especially in Korea, we witnessed the rapid developing process of clothing production. Anymore, we can met expect consumers to purchase products which have been producted without fixed plan. This study makes career women, who have inhaboited in Seoul. The study makes career women, who have inhabited in Seoul. The objects are deveded according to whether married or unmaried, occupation, academic career age, income, and analized. This study aims to grasp which kind of clothing consumers are fond and to contribute the pre-estimate of coming clothing production. The object fo study includes career women who have inhabited in Seoul. The interval of study is from January 15th to March 27th of 1988. The writor distributed 400 sets of questionnaire, but collected and analyzed 312 sets of them except inadequate things. The analysis includes 52 persons of the educational world, 52 persons of general public official, salart man and bank clerk, 52 persons of clothing industrial world, 52 persons of liberal profession, 52 persons of commercial business, 52 persons of department saleman. The samples analyzed at random. The statistical analyses used in this study are t-test, F-test (ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test, Chi-squre test, and so on. 1. Threr was a correlation coefficient of significat relation between occupation and aesthetic factor. 2. There was a significant difference beteen occupation and the beauty of fashion. 3. There was a significant different between low academic career and high academic career. 4. There was a significant relation between occupation and the element of design. The results of analysis are as following: As a result of F-test (ANOVA) according ot the occupation, there was s significant difference between the occupation and the fashion. Therefore, the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion of career women was different according to each of their tastes of dress and personality. As the results of Duncan's test to examine the difference between groups according to the occupation and the fashion, group of the clothing industrial world indicates higher level of aesthetic consciousness than each group of the liberal profession, general public official and salary man, and bank clerk, department salesman, educational world, and commercial business. Especially as the result of t-test to compare and analyze according to the level of academic career, the higher the level of academic career is, the higher the level of aesthetic consciousness reveals. As the result of Chi-square test to examine the realtion between career women and the elements of fashion design such as design line, color, texture, the tendency of liking them revealed differently according to the kind of occupation. As mentioned above, through the research of aesthetic consciousness of career women, we can grasp which one our consumer needs and likes and, furthermore, come to contribute the pre-estimate of clothing production in confrontation of rapid developing process of clothing production.

18世紀 素材의 무늬 design 變化過程과 年代와의 關係에 對한 考察 硏究 : 衣裳用 무늬 design을 中心으로 Focused on the Textile Design for Costume

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1991 生活文化硏究 Vol.5 No.-

Watteau와 Rococo의 服飾意匠에 關한 硏究 : Antoine Watteau를 中心으로 Focused on Antoine Watteau

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 1988 生活文化硏究 Vol.2 No.-

As the modern fashion design is influenced on the development of modern industries as well as expressions by the past real life, the ideal of costume design by each different period would be repersentative of the sociological ideology, and at the same time, it would be reflected on the culture expressed on the background of a certain period and nations to symbolize politic, economy, thoughts, etc.. The form of costume design is not related with the history to arrange only the from, and the fashio design is repeated by the coming new mode for a certain period, and also it is repersentative of the peoples experssions who lived in the period. With the above thoughts, it was examined on the fact that the cultural art of fashion design was controlled by France as a superpower country from the political and economical standpoint since 17th century and the painting of Antoine Watteau who was pleased to paint the matrix of costume design that the 18th century's brilliant Rococo Royan court culture was more vigorously developed, and finally it was aimed at planning the effect of the contemporary costume design on today's design art and the more better aesthetic creation. The art of Rococo was a general term of formative mode based of ornament. The name of ornament was come from rocaille and it was used for various such as wall side, ceiling, furniture, etc., of interior decoration, mainly, as a motif of unbalanced ornament. These tendencies can be found in fashion design as well, and delicate and elegant linear beauty was well expressed on the costume ornament for any other periods as a motif of various ornaments such as frill, ribbon, loop, textile dseign, flower basket, and so forth. Mainly with the Royal court, cultures are repersentative from the social life of nobles and wealthy people, and the noble and social power for the Royal court of salon is the characteristic or Rococo culture. A fashion design, women's dress developed the noble culturt centering around salon, played a role of improtant interior decoration at social club. With such polished sense of enjoyed life, the painting of Antoine Watteau who turned up the salon culture and become a founder by drawing the truthfulness of a pathetic scene with his feeling and these delicate costumes has a Rococo characteristic. The costume called Watteau pleats gown, a beautiful expression of reverse pleats of women's image expressed in the painting is continued to Marie Antoinette. The costume of a person expressed as a novel for floating lind and colors with an elegant character and poetic surroundings, as a background of rural scene or garden for those contemporary life emotions, become a real example. The costrume called Watteau pleats gown is proved from the diary do those literary works that it was actually hand draffting and possessed by Watteau and drawn with a model by a necessity. Therefore, it was well expressed on a picture for the life of the period to some extent to understand each to those Rococo period through the design do Watteau pleats gown or fabric for those noble women in these costumes. For example, we can find that comparing the earlier period's Watteau pleats gown is rich and comfortable gown, the forehead waistline is just fitted by passing the period and rear center of Watteau pleats was arranged with the regular pleats. Moreover, the early period of fabric design was large in the flower design, and it is more smaller by passing the period. The image experssed on the Wattear's painting with various life emotion, as above described, is not representative of the period that it was arranged independent of an image in the costume and developed for the costume. As it painted on a picture for those life emotions and as one thing for the space of whole canvas, its life is not only exited, but also its significance is realized. In other words, the costume is not to control the society at that time for those arranged human images and develop the culture. It was expressed an internal spirit for those human beings, and therefore, the life is existed as it is harmonized with the mutual relation from the general relation. Those society was controlled by the experssion of those emotions and it was repersentative of the culture. Threrfore I woule like to stress that the all formative activity is related with one's spiritual expression in human life. In addition, it can be found that the social change of the period is significantly effected on the fashion design. The above examination understands the changing process of the costume design through those creative life emotion, and it is expected to become an opportunity to plan an originaltiy in the fashion design of industrial society by today's our mass production.

Comparison of Heat Treatment Methods Applied to Various Fabrics for Garment

許甲暹 誠信女子大學校 1986 硏究論文集 Vol.23 No.-

硏究의 目的은 보다 美的은 衣服을 着用하기 위해서는, textile⇒design⇒technique 過程에서 그 關係性은 어느 한가지도 無視할 수 없으며, 織物은 그 材料가 지니고 있는 觸感 또는 質感에 應하지 않으면 안된다. 이러한 面을 고려하여 本 硏究는 3 種類의 織物을 選定하여, 各 各의 織物에 熱을 加했을 때 (heat treatment of the waistline) 그 質感에 따라 變하는 差를 考察하여 比較 했다. 選定된 3 種類의 織物은: 1. Wool 2. Polyester 3. Cotton이다. 實驗에 의하여 考察한 結果를 比較해 보면: 1) Wool은 다른 實驗對象의 織物보다 molding(steam-and heat)率이 가장 높게 나타났으며 (熟練된 技術은 必要로 하기는 하나), 다른 織物보다 또 쉽게 molding이 되는데 比해, 2) Cotton은 tables, graphs, 寫眞에서 보이는 바와 같이, 그 材質에 따라 molding率이 낮은 것으로 나타났다. 3) Polyester 는??想했던 例外로 molding率이 높게 나타났다. 3種類의 織物中에서 wool이 가장 molding率이 높았으며, 그 다음이 polyester,cotton 順位이다. 特히 이 實驗에 依한 考察에서 關心을 가지게 한 것은 polyester가 molding率이 높게 나타난 것에 對하여 새로운 發見이라 할 수 있겠다. 이와 같은 結果로 보아 織物의 材質에 따른 design 이나 construction에 고려되리라 본다.

Apparel 産業을 위한 CAD System에 關한 硏究 : Moda CAD를 中心으로 focused on the Moda CAD for Apparel Design

許甲暹 성신여자대학교 생활문화연구소 2000 生活文化硏究 Vol.14 No.-