부인복 기본 길·소매 원형 제도법 고찰

黃春燮,김성경 慶熙大學校 1994 論文集 Vol.23 No.-

The purpose of this study is to develop a new pattern drafting system for women´s basic bodices and sleeves that will fit nicely regardless of the types of the physique. The research questions raised for this study are: 1) Is there a pattern drafting system that can increase the satisfaction level of the 'fit´ of the garment made by conventional pattern drafting system? 2) Is there a pattern drafting system that can increase the satisfaction level of the 'comfort´ of the garment made by conventional pattern drafting systems? The method and procedure by which the present study was conducted is as follows: (1) After analyzing the problems of the conventional pattern drafting systems, a new proposed pattern drafting system was developed by the researcher. (2) Ten subjects, between the ages 18 - 34, were chosen according to their bust sizes and shoulder slopes. It was arranged that two subjects in each size category were used, the categories being the Five Standard Bust Sized suggested by the Koren Standard Research Center. It was also arranged that two different shoulder slopes in one size category were used, the difference being 5 to 6 degrees. (3) Two pairs of basic bodices and sleeves were made : one by the proposed pattern drafting system and the other by the conventional system for each subject. The fit of each garment was evaluated by three professional evaluators using an evaluative instrument. The comfort of each garment was evaluated by the subjects themselves with an evaluative instrument. (4) The evaluative instrument was developed by the researcher on the basis of the one designed by Bowlby. The instrument consists of 62 guestions: 51 for 'fit´ and 11 for 'comfort´. A rating scale of one to five was used, number 3 being the best fit and comfort. (5) T-test. Paired T-test, and F-test were used to analyze the collected data. Followings are the results of the evaluation : 1) The fit of the experimental bodices is superior to that of the conventional bodices. 2) The fit of the experimental sleeves is superior to that of the conventional sleeves. 3) The comfort of the experimental bodices is superior to that of the conventional bodices. 4) The comfort of the experimental sleeves is superior to that of the conventional sleeves. (6) Finally, the developed new pattern drafting system was proposed, as one of the best method by which women´s basic bodices and sleeves patterns are produced.

朝鮮朝 呈才服飾

黃春燮 慶熙大學校 1993 論文集 Vol.22 No.-

The present study was conducted in order to deepen understanding of Korean traditional clothing culture, and to enhance understanding of the strong relation between characteristics of Korean traditional court-dancing and its costume. Design, style and items of court dancing costume of Yi-Dynasty were studied through the analysis of related written materials such as records and documents on Yi-Dynasty court dancing. The results of the study are as follows: (1) Traditional court dancing costume of Yi-dynasty is consist of headgear, dresses, belt, shoes, and some other ornaments. (2) Headgears used for traditional court-dancing of Yi-dynasty were named such as Hwakwan, Booyongkwan, Akwangmo, Haprip, Yunhwakwan, Samo, Yunkwangmo, Bokdu, Jeunrip, Joorip. The shape of these headgears are shown in figure 1 - figure 10. (3) Several types of light over coat called Danui, Joongdan, Hongrapo, Nampo, Hongchosam, Hwangchosam, Kumhyanghyupsoo, Chumri, Baekjilnamsuenjoogdanui, and Dansam were found in records and documents which were used as research materials for the present study. And Kueza(a sort of long vest), Hansam(a sort of short blouse with long sleeve), Sang(long wrapping skirt), Kun(a kind of baggy pants) were also found. The shape of each of them are shown in figure 11 - figure 27. (4) Several kinds of belts, named Hakjungdae, Doosukrokjungdae, Hongdankumnoosoodae, Jinhongkwangdae, Kumhwahongradae and Soodae were used as a important part of the costume of traditional court dancing. (5) Figure 31-figure 34 shows several types of shoes which were used for Yi-dynasty court dancing, called Chorokhae, Bidoori, Chinhongdanhae, Hongsoohae, hkhwa, soohwaza. (6) Other ornaments implies Hansam(hand cover, its color was plain white or combination of red, yellow, blue, white and black), Mask, Kilgyung, Cheunui, Hapi, Kmgaza, rose, tassel. (7) The style of the traditional court dancing costumes of yi-dynasty was very voluminous and they are so colorful. Those colar was selected and used on the basis of oriental philosophy such as confucianism and the Five Eliments Theory. (8) Because the court dancing was performed to make a display or commend rulership and ruler´s services, and was made for the celebration and amusement of the royal family and the peerage, court dancing costumes of Yi-dynasty were exempted from clothing-ban of those days.

숙녀복 머천다이징의 지역적 차별화를 위한 대도시 소비자 특성 고찰

황춘섭,성효인 慶熙大學校 1995 論文集 Vol.24 No.-

The present study was conducted to contribute to producing fashion products accommodating consumer needs, improving distribution structure and promotional activities, and planning adequate assortments and depth of what consumers are likely to demend. In order to obtain this purpose, characteristics of life styles, clothing evaluative criteria, and the purchase behaviors of consumers of three age groups(20's, 30;s, 40's) in six metropolitan cities were examined. And the study also investigated the differences in the purchase behavior of consumers between and among the cities caused by their regional characteristics. The specific research problems of the study was as follows: (1) to find out regional differences in the characteristics of the consumers' life styles. (2) to find out regional differences in the characteristics of the consumers' clothing evaluative criteria. (3) to investigate the regional differences in the purchase behaviors of consumers. The study was implemented by normative-descriptive survey method using questionnaire. On the basis of the literature analysis, the questionnaire covering items reflecting life style, clothing evaluaative criteria, consumer behavior, and demographics was developed. Respondants were 864 women of three-age groups in the six metropolitan cities. The survey was conducted during July 1st - July 28 '94. The data from the subjects was analyzed by factor analysis, reliability test(Cronbach Coefficient α), one-way analysis of variance. Duncan test, frequency and percentage. The major findings were as follows: (1) The consumers of each city showed significant regional characteristics in life-style dimensions and clothing evaluative criteria. (2) There was significant relations between life-style dimensions and clothing evaluative criteria of the consumers of each city. (3) There was an important discrimination, according to the regional characteristics of life styles and clothing evaluative criteria, in the purchase behaviors such as information search, store-choice, and purchase habit.

韓國 衣類産業의 動向考察

黃春燮 慶熙大學校 1983 論文集 Vol.12 No.-

As a fashion business, the apparel industry of Korea, which has achieved remarkable progress since the mid-1970s, is now faced with many difficulties; target renovation, brand development, channel of distribution improvement, selling agency expansion, inventory rate reduction, foreign information collection, ready to wear diffusion. The industry has been one of the leading export industries of Korea. But in the past few years, its exports have been confronted with several unfavorable developments both at home and abroad such as the wage increase pressure and the government priority for the development of heavy and chemical industries on the domestic front, and import barriers against textile products erected by advanced countries and the rapid growth of the textile industry in many developing countries on the international front. To solve these problems, the followings are suggested in this study: 1. Modernization of facilities, active technological development and effective business management. 2. Establishment of effective information collection system. 3. Development of technical manpower and fashion specialists. 4. Increase the effort for development and research programs.

大學衣類系列學科 敎育課程의 變遷過程과 문제점

黃春燮 慶熙大學校 1986 論文集 Vol.15 No.-

This research attempted to analyze and identify the weaknesses of the present curriculum and ultimately to improve the quality of clothing and textile education. To pursue the purpose of the present study, documentary analysis and the descriptive normative survey was used with the questionnaire as the data gathering instrument. Supplementary research included observation and informal interviews. Subject of this particular study consisted of 21 faculty members, 181 students, and 84 graduates. Finding of the study are presented hereunder: (1) Objectives of the present clothing and textiles curriculum is relevant to the real needs of communities, interests and aptitudes of the students. But statement of the objectives perceived by the respondents as moderately low in its clarity. (2) Weakness of the present curriculum are particularly marked in practical work experience and seqencing of the courses. (3) Another finding supporting the need for minor changes in the present curriculum is the lack of variety in the courses beeing offered. While changes are continually taking place in the community, and in society, elective courses are not varied enough for students to select those that suit their needs, interests, aptitudes and which are also responsive to community needs. (4) Adequacy of instructional materials facilities and equipment was rated moderately low. (5) Lack of the programs for foreign language and guidance and counseling services. On the basis of the findings of the analysis made of the present curriculum, the following measures are recommended by the researcher. (1) Modification of objectives Specific objectives should be reformulated. (2) Revision of instructional course offerings. (3) Development and improvement of guidance and counseling services. (4) Encouragement of more viable student co-curricular organization and groups. (5) Greater effort should be exerted to establish linkage with available industries for the practical experiences and on-the-job trainning of students. (6) Adequacy of teaching materials, facilities and equipment in quality and quantity, and their effective use to reach instructional goal must be given greater attention.

주부들의 의복 관여도와 유아복 잡지광고에 대한 태도 고찰

황춘섭,오은정 慶熙大學校 1996 論文集 Vol.25 No.-

This research is interested in the concept of consumer's fashion involvement which makes influences on the consumer's information-searching pattern. The main object of the approach is the mothers of the babies under the age 3, who can be considered the actual babies' costumes buyers. The writer tried to find out whether the mother's own fashion involvement is in any proportionate relation with their babies' costumes involvement and also to study their various attitudes toward the magazine advertising of babies' costumes. The writer hope this research could provide babies' costumes industries with basic data that can help to establish more effectual advertising strategies. To achieve the purpose of the present research. The writer established 4 more detailed study points as follows: 1) to find out the appeal patterns of babies' costumes advertisements especially favored by the mothers 2) to find out the relationship between the mothers' own fashion involvement and their involvement in the babies'costumes advertisement 3) to find out their various degree of involvement in the babies' costumes advertisement according to their fashion involvement degree. This research was conducted through the survey method using stimulating objects and questionnaires. The experimental advertisements used in this survey were selected among the actual magazine advertising, and reproduced with the help of an expert in advertisement production who is a present member of an advertising company. During the reproduction process, all the brand names were deleted in order to control the brand familiarity and the brand preference which might have an influence on the consumer's attitude toward specific advertisements. The appeal patterns of the magazine advertising materials used in this research was limited to only 3 kinds that is, the appeal to reason, the mixed appeal to reason and emotion, the appeal to emotion. The questionnaire includes question items designed to identify the attitudes toward advertisements, the degree of fashion involvement, the opinions on utility of magazine advertising of babies costumes, and the present magazine subscription situation, the source of information on babies' costumes purchase, 394 samples were extracted through the convenience sampling method among the mothers of babies under the age 3. presently living in Seoul. The data was analyzed by Frequency, paired t-test, Chi-square, Correlation and Oneway. The result of the research can be summarized as follows: 1) Among the 3 kinds of advertisement appeal patterns, most preference was shown to the mixed appeal to reason and emotion. The appeal to emotion followed next and then comes the appeal to reason. 2) The higher the degree of mothers' own fashion involvement, the higher their involvement in their babies'costumes. 3) Mothers' fashion involvement degree doesn't make any difference in their attitudes toward the advertisement of babies' costumes.

서울지역에서의 VOCs 오염원 기여도 추정에 관한 연구

봉춘근,윤중섭,황인조,김창녕,김동술 한국대기환경학회 2003 한국대기환경학회지 Vol.19 No.4

A field study was conducted during the summer time of 2002 to determine compositions of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emitted from vehicles and to develop source emission profiles that is applied to CMB model to estimate the source contribution of certain area. Source emission profile is widely used for the estimation of source contribution by the chemical mass balance model and have to be developed applicable fur the large1 area of estimation. This study was aimed to develop source emission profile and estimation of source contribution of VOCs after application of the chemical mass balance (CMB) receptor model. After considering the emission inventory and other research results for the VOCs in Seoul, Korea, the sources like vehicle emission(tunnel), gas station (gasoline, diesel), solvent usage (painting operation, dry cleaning, graphic att), and gas fuels were selected for the major VOCs sources. Furthermore, ambient air samples were simultanceusly collected from 09:00 to 11:00 for four days at eight different official air quality monitoring sites as receptors in Seoul during summer of 2001. Source samples were collected by canisters, and then about seventy volatile organic compounds were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC/FID). Based on both the developed source profiles and the database of the receptors, CMB model was intensively applied to estimate mass contribution of VOCs sources. Examining the source profile from the vehicle, the portion of alkanes of VOCs was highest, and then the portion of aromatics such toluene, m/p-xylene were followed In case of gas fuel, they have their own components: the content of butane. propane. ethane was higher than any other component according tn the fuel usage. The average of the source apportionment on VOCs for 8 sites showed that the major sources were vehicle emission and gas fuels. me vehicle emission source was revealed as having the highest contribution with an average of 49.6% and followed by solvent with 21.3%, gas fuel with 16.1%, gasoline with 13.1%.

나이지리아 요루바 부족과 에도 부족의 傳統 衣文化 考察

남윤자,황춘섭,이영숙 慶熙大學校 1991 論文集 Vol.20 No.-

Consciousness toward clothing, traditional weaving, textiles. and principal garment of the Yoruba and the Edo were the concerns of the present study. The study was made to deepen the appreciation of their cultural heritage, and to contribute to the field of comparative study of clothing and culture. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials and interview with several persons from Nigeria. And 13 pieces of the Yoruba traditional costumes were examined. The results of the study shows that the Yoruba and the Edo have attached great importance to clothing, and their costumes traditionally have played a great role as symbol and metaphor : Only after worrior's ceremony(osoku), a man assumes a long loose sleeved shirt and a red fez. Men's obete, women's omeda, and thick metal rings on leg are typical symbol of women's prestige. Despite the relative simplicity of the loom technology, hand­woven textiles produced reveal the remarkable quality and variety. These is still a strong demand for hand women cloth for ritual use, in funerals for example, and for dress wear on important occasions.(the latter sometimes reinforced by nationalist feelings) Their traditional commemorative cloth provide them with additional opportunities to comment on traditional and contemporary issues through the imagery of cloth.

원피스의 着用感에 關한 硏究(Ⅰ)

南潤子,黃春燮,李映淑 慶熙大學校 1990 論文集 Vol.19 No.-

The purpose of this study was to investigate subjective wearing sensation and change of temperature by fabrics 100% Polyester, 100% cotton, 100% rayon, 100% wool. One-Piece dress having long dolman sleeve and round neckline was used for the experiment of presents study. The results of the study and fabrics were summerized as follows. 1. By fabrics, differences was found in skin temperature except forehead and Buttock. 2. The mean skin temperature and oral temperature was the highest when subject wears polyester. The second from the highest was wool, the third was rayon, and the lowest was cotton. 3. The temperature inside clothing was higher polyester and rayon than wool and cotton. Relative humidity inside clothing was the highest rayon, and it was high order of the size such as Polyester > wool > cotton. 4. Blood Pressure was higher cotton and polyester than rayon and wool. Pulse rate shows no different by kinds of fabrics. 5. Coefficient of person's correlation shows that the comfortable has the most relation to thermal and weight sensation.

동종골과 다공성 하이드록시 아파타이트의 골 유합능 비교

황창주(Changju Hwang),배정연(Jung-Yun Bae),구기형(Ki Hyoung Koo),이재협(Jae Hyup Lee),염진섭(Jin-Sup Yeom),장봉순(Bong-Soon Chang),이춘기(Choon-Ki Lee) 대한정형외과학회 2007 대한정형외과학회지 Vol.42 No.4

목적: 동종골과 다공성 하이드록시 아파타이트(본그로스-HA<SUP>®</SUP>)를 이용하여 백색 가토의 후외방 유합술을 시행함으로써 유합 능력의 차이를 비교하고자 하였다. 대상 및 방법: 3-3.5 kg의 뉴질랜드산 수컷 백색 가토의 양측 제4-5 요추 횡돌기를 후외방 도달법으로 노출한 후 각각 3 cc의 동종골 또는 다공성 하이드록시 아파타이트를 이식하였다. 15마리씩 두 군으로 나누었고, 술 후 12주에 전체를 희생하여 육안 및 도수 촉진 검사, 방사선학적 검사, 인장 검사, 조직학적 검사 등을 통해 골형성 및 유합 능력을 평가하였다. 동종골을 이식한 군에서 생육 도중 6마리가 사망하여 부검을 시행하였으나 특이 소견은 관찰되지 않았다. 결과: 술후 12주에 동종골 이식 군에서는 9마리 중 5마리(55.6%)가 완전 유합, 4마리가 부분 유합으로 판정되었고, HA 이식 군에서는 15마리 중 10마리(66.7%)가 완전 유합, 4마리가 부분 유합, 1마리에서 불유합의 소견을 보였다. 인장 검사 상 유합체의 평균 파단점은 동종골 이식 군에서 140.7 N, HA 이식 군에서 189.6 N이었다. 각 군 당 2마리씩 시행한 조직학적 검사에서는 HA 이식 군의 골전도 양상이 다소 좋은 결과를 나타내었다. 결론: 골 유합능 비교 실험에서 통계적으로 유의한 차이가 없었으나 HA 이식군에서 다소 우수한 결과를 보였다. Purpose: An experimental animal study was performed to compare the bone fusion capacity of an allograft and porous hydroxyapatite. Materials and Methods: Three milliliters of allograft or porous hydroxyapatite particles were inserted between the 4<SUP>th</SUP> and 5<SUP>th</SUP> lumbar transverse processes of New Zealand white rabbits weighing 3-3.5 kg. The total number of rabbits was 30, which were divided randomly into 2 groups. The bone formation and fusion capacity were evaluated 12 weeks after surgery through the gross findings and manual palpation, as well as radiological, biomechanical, and histological studies. Six rabbits in the allograft group died during breeding but the autopsy finding did not show any evidence suggesting an infection or graft rejection. The allograft was harvested from the iliac crest of the rabbits of the same species aseptically and was preserved at - 80°C for at least 7 days before implantation. Results: The fusion rates were 55.6% (5/9) and 66.7% (10/15) in the allograft and porous hydroxy-apatite groups, respectively. The mean values of the tensile strengths were 140.7 N in the allograft group and 189.6 N in the porous hydroxyapatite group. Histological analysis of 2 specimens from each group revealed theporous hydroxyapatite group to show a slightly better osteoconduction capacity. Conclusion: The porous hydroxyapatite group showed better bony union capacity even though there was no significant difference between the 2 groups.