여중생의 교복 디자인 선호도와 체형 유형에 따른 패턴 설계 = A study on the uniform pattern development for middle school girls based on their design preferences and somatotypes

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

It was study of school uniform pattern for middle school girls somatotypes to understand the preferences and satisfaction of school uniform design of middle school girls and research and analyze the somatotype of middle school girls to suggest uniform pattern that corresponds with school girls' aesthetic sense of value and fits good on body.
The results of this study were as follows:
1. Middle school girls dissatisfied highly on design of present uniforms and they wanted to be altered was design with highest rate. So there should be some improvement in design. The items that need alternating were design, various size, and colors order. In detail, they wanted to change designs of collar and waist line etc. About items of the material, color and details, the preference to synthetic fiber was the highest which does not wrinkle easily and solid color without any pattern and different colors for each jacket and skirt were the highest preference. And the favorite items for uniform they chose were black jacket and grey skirt. About Jackets, they wanted tailored collar, one button double adjust and waist long jacket combination. About Skirts, they wanted grey color, over knee length, and box-pleated skirt with stitches line combination. So there should be improvement in design reflected of their preference.
2. The somatotypes of the middle school girls were intended to be categorized for the highly applicable clothes design that reflects the clothes design. For this, the 3 middle schools in Jeonju were selected for anthropometric measurement of 317 middle school girls between the age of 12-15. The items of measurement are related to the body shape of middle school girls, clothes design and size system which is consisted of total of 50 items. For the basic data of clothes design was judged that the classification of the body shapes related to the tops and bottoms would be rational; hence, it is classified into the upper part and lower part of the body to extract the body shape consistent factor.
As a result of analyzing the factors, the upper body consistent was extracted as the 4 items: upper body circumference, upper body length, breast development, and arm length. It was displayed as 75.26% explicability. The lower body consistent factors are extracted as lower body height, lower body circumference, hip length, and rear shape with 78.62% explicability. To categorize the body shape of upper body and lower body, each factor score is made into the independent variable for group analysis. As a result, the upper body was classified into the ‘upper body with small breast and long’ with weak development of horizontal factors and long arms and ‘upper body with big breast’ with relatively short arts and developed breasts. The lower body was categorized as ‘lower body with long hip length’ with large and long hip length compared to other body shape and ‘standard lowerbody’ body shape which the horizontal and perpendicular items all showed smaller value compared to the glamour body shape.
3. This study designed and presented the jacket and skirt pattern that is suitable for the physical figure of middle school girls, providing a good fit and appearance.
It finally designed the jacket and skirt pattern, after passing through the measurement value of the test study, and the primary and secondary dressing test.
Based on these experiments a new jacket and skirt pattern are created with the features as shown in the following.
1) The jacket pattern for ‘upper body with small breast and long arm’
① Waist back length was made actual size of the waist back length.
② The length of the jacket was made to cover the area 8.7cm below the waistline.
③ The armhole length was made 6.5cm longer than B/6, enhancing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms.
④ As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 3.6cm larger than the B/6 while the back interscye breadth was B/6+4.6cm.
⑤ As for the front and back bust breadth, front bust breadth was B/4+2.5cm and back bust breadth was B/4+1.5cm.
⑥ The width of the back neck was applied 8.5cm.
⑦ As to the length of a nipple, shoulder, it applied the real measurement.
⑧ The waist breadth was made 4cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1cm)
⑨ As to the height of sleeve cap height, it set it to A.H/3+1 from the armhole of jacket pattern, and as for the height of a sleeve, it applied the measurement of the sleeve length,
2) The jacket pattern for ‘upper body with big breast’
① Waist back length was made actual size of the waist back length.
② The length of the jacket was made to cover the area 9.5cm below the waistline.
③ The armhole length was made 6.5cm longer than B/6, enhancing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms.
④ As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 5cm larger than the B/6 while back interscye breadth was B/6+4cm.
⑤ As for the front and back bust breadth, front and back bust breadth was B/4+2.5cm.
3) The skirt pattern for 'lower body with long hip length’
① The front and back hip breadth was made H/4+1cm
② The waist breadth was W/4+dart+1cm, the dart breadth was 1.5cm
4) The skirt pattern for 'standard lower body’
① The front hip breadth was H/4+1.7cm, the back hip breadth was H/4+0.7cm
② The waist breadth was W/4+dart+1cm, the dart breadth was 1.5cm
With the resulting clothing, it is hoped that middle school girls would be able to develop an improved sense of social stability. Also it is expected that the clothing industry would find this pattern a helpful tool in their pursuit of satisfying the demand of the middle school girls.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Ⅰ. 서 론 1
• 1. 연구의 필요성 1
• 2. 연구목적 3
• 3. 용어의 정의 5
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 6
• 1. 여중생의 체형 6
• 1) 여중생의 체형 특징 6
• 2) 여중생 체형에 관한 선행연구 7
• 2. 교복 착용역사 및 교복업체 현황 11
• 3. 여중생 의류 치수체계 14
• 1) KS규격에 의한 의류 치수체계 14
• 2) 교복 치수체계 17
• 4. 교복에 관한 선행연구 18
• Ⅲ. 연구방법 및 절차 23
• 1. 교복 디자인 선호도에 대한 설문조사 23
• 1) 조사대상 및 자료 수집 23
• 2) 측정도구 및 분석방법 24
• 3) 자료 분석 25
• 2. 여중생 체형 유형화를 위한 신체측정 27
• 1) 측정대상 및 일시 27
• 2) 측정용구 및 방법 27
• 3) 측정항목 28
• 4) 자료 분석 29
• 3. 교복 패턴 설계 및 착의 평가 29
• 1) 실험복 패턴 설계 30
• 2) 실험복 착의 평가 31
• 3) 연구패턴 제시 34
• Ⅳ. 결과 및 고찰 35
• 1. 여중생의 교복 디자인 선호도 35
• 1) 교복에 대한 인식 35
• 2) 선호하는 교복 디자인 42
• 3) 디자인 제시 53
• 2. 여중생 체형유형화 54
• 1) 여중생 체형 특성 54
• 2) 체형 구성요인 추출 56
• 3) 상반신 및 하반신 체형 유형화 59
• 4) 상반신과 하반신 체형 유형간 독립성 여부 67
• 3. 여중생의 교복 디자인 선호도와 체형유형에 따른 교복패턴 설계 69
• 1) 기본패턴 69
• 2) 패턴제작 77
• 3) 착의 평가 90
• 4) 연구패턴 제시 116
• Ⅴ. 결론 및 제언 125
• 1. 결론 125
• 2. 연구의 제한점 및 제언 128
• 참고문헌 130
• 부 록 134