퍼머넌트제의 웨이브 효율과 모발손상 비교 = Comparison of Permanent wave Efficacy and Hair Damage of permanent wave lotions

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The hair style of women was enlarged its importance of an aesthetic point of view as a means of self-expression. In proportion to the desire of strong personality expression, chemical treatments on hair as well as repeat and crossing treatments were increased. Particularly permanent wave treatment was the most popular style in woman. But the excessive chemical treatments cause not only hair damage but also impede personality expressions and brings about serious obstacles at an aesthetic point of view. Thus various permanent wave lotions were investigated and sales on the market. The permanent wave lotions have two face, the one is the efficacy of waves and the another is damage of hair. These two points were dependent factor to each other. For the purpose of the investigation on correlation of these two factors, the wave efficacy and hair damage following chemical treatments, using 4 different permanent wave lotions, these were thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteine HCl and cysteamine.
In order to this experiment, three women's healthy hairs are picked and executed permanent, colorings, and decoloration treatments.
To find out the efficiency of permanent wave lotion, the efficiency of permanent wave and the maintenance ratio of the wave were measured. By comparing the before and after of perm processing, the efficiency of wave was evaluated and the maintenance ratio of wave was observed and calculated by observing the changes of curl after alkali-processing of the wave-formed hair.
The wave efficiency was potent orderly cysteamine, cysteine, cysteine HCl and thioglycolic acid. Repeated operation, these results were similar to simple operation and resulted more potent differences. The pH of permanent wave lotion were highest at 9.18 in case of thioglycolic acid and other formulations were below 9.
The elasticity of hair, maximum length returning to an orignal situation when pulling hair and unloose it were evaluated. We measured the moisture retention of hair, the degree of moisture retention at the dry condition after supplying sufficient moisture with hair and alkali solubility, the quantity of hair protein dissolving and coming out at alkali and also analysed and evaluated cystine content existing in the hair.
Through these results on hair damage ratios were orderly thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteine HCl and cysteamine. Also the same patterns were shown in physical touch test following permanent operation but the difference was not important among permanent wave lotions. The elasticities were 134.8 % in case of virgin hair but in case of thioglycolic acid was diminished as 121.2 %. In case of cysteamine it was 129.8 % as relatively high value could verify a low hair damage.
In chemical damage tests, operation of permanent wave aggressive damage on hair but the choice of permanent wave lotion could reduce it. Moisturizing effects of virgin hair was 14.0 %, 12.0 % of thioglycolic acid and 12.8 % of cysteamine.
In alkali release tests, damaged hair had high level of protein loose value such as thioglycolic acid compared with cysteine and cysteamine. Similar results were shown in cystine release patterns.
These results were shown the correlation with hair damage and wave effectivity of permanent wave lotion.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차
• Ⅰ. 서론 = 1
• 1. 연구의 배경 = 1
• 2. 연구의 목적 = 3
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 = 4
• 1. 펌제의 원리 = 4
• 2. 펌제의 종류와 특성 = 4
• 3. 모발의 손상 = 8
• Ⅲ. 실험방법 = 11
• 1. 시약 = 11
• 2. 기기 = 11
• 3. 퍼머넌트 웨이브 시술 = 11
• 4. 웨이브 평가 = 12
• 5. 모발손상의 비교 = 13
• Ⅳ. 결과 및 고찰 = 16
• 1. 펌제의 pH = 16
• 2. 웨이브 효율 = 16
• 3. 모발손상의 평가 = 18
• Ⅴ. 결론 = 23
• 참고문헌 = 25
• (Summary)= 27
• 감사의 글 = 29