고사리잎 추출액을 이용한 견직물 염색성 = Dyeing Properties of Silk Fabrics with Pteridium aquilinum Extract

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by IR spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness to the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at 2417㎝^(-1), C-H at 2930㎝^(-1), C-O at 1722^(-1), C=C at 1644㎝^(-1), CH₂ at 1402㎝^(-1). And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at 3409㎝^(-1), C-H at 3003㎝^(-1) and 2933㎝^(-1), C=O at 1701㎝^(-1), C=C at 1582㎝^(-1), CH₂ at 1401㎝^(-1), CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at 1287㎝^(-1) and 1135㎝^(-1). The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were 80℃, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y. Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, △E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre-and post-mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, △E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre-and post-mordanted fabrics.