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1970년대 서양복식에 나타난 동양 복식미의 다각적 분석
장남경(Nam Kyung Jang) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.1
본 연구의 목적은 (1) 1970년대 서양복식에 존재하는 오리엔탈리즘의 반향에 대해 정의하고, (2) 서양 복식을 통해 표출된 오리엔탈리즘의 의미를 당시 정치, 사회, 문화적인 측면과 연결하여 탐구하는데 있다. 이론적 틀로는 문화인류학 이론에서 유래된 Hamilton의 Unifying Metatheory of Clothing and Textile(1987)이 적용되었다. 연구 방법으로는 1970년부터 1979년까지 미국에서 발행된 총 142권의 VOGUE 잡지 중 80권을 분석하여, 오리엔탈리즘이 보여지는 45장의 패션사진을 자료로 추출한 후, 연도, 디자이너의 소속 지역, metatheory에 따라 분석하였다. 각 연도별로 오리엔탈리즘이 표현되는 정도와 방법은 다양하였다. 서양디자이너들은 동양의 전통의상을 거의 그대로 모방하거나 하나 이상의 국가들의 전통의상 디자인 요소들을 하나의 복식에 혼합, 표현하는 방법을 주로 보여주는 반면, 동양 디자이너는 전통의상을 포함한 자국의 다양한 문화적 요소들을 서양복식에 도입하여 표현하였다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 복식에서 보여지는 시각적인 면의 분석과 더불어, 1970년대 당시 미국의 정치, 사회, 문화전반의 상황과 복식에 있어서 오리엔탈리즘의 도입과의 영향관계가 파악되었다. 따라서, 복식을 연구함에 있어서 문화인류학적 이론과 같은 다른 분야의 이론의 적용은 복식을 새로운 측면에서 이해하는 넓은 안목과 통합적인 틀을 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.
90년대 (1990 - 1998) 한국 의류학 연구의 현황
김정호(Chung Ho Kim) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.46 No.-
The purpose of this study was to investigate trends of subject matter emphasis in clothing and textiles and to show the future directions to cooperate the fashion &textiles business and college. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in two professional journals from 1990 through 1998. The identified 1131 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: history of costume, textiles, design and aesthetics, social-psychological aspect of clothing, fashion merchandising. The results were as follows : 1. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: ① history of costume (231-20.4%) ② textiles(221-19.5%) ③ design and aesthetics(198-17.5%) ④ social-psychological aspect of clothing (183-16%) ⑤ fashion merchandising (169-15%) ⑥ clothing construction (129-11%) 2. In the area of history of costume, most of research have been published through Journal of Korean Society of Costume (197 out of 231. 85%). Especially, history of korean costume was the most dominant area (154 out of 231. 67%) 3. In the area of textiles, most of research have been published through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(209 out of 221. 95%) 4. Fashion design and aesthetics area was getting increased remarkably (ranking 3) as compared with preceding study (ranking 6) 5. Nineties` research (1990-1998. 1131) has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as compared with preceding study (1977-1989. 346)
중국정사조선전(中國正史朝鮮傳)의 한국고대복식(韓國古代服飾)
김진선(Jin Seon Kim),고부자(Bou Ja Koh) 한국복식학회 2014 服飾 Vol.64 No.1
This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties` official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check(?), Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men`s hair style as Choo-gyul (?結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (女?髮垂後: wear women`s hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.