천연물로부터의 항노화소재 개발 : triterpenoid계 식물성분인 oleanolic acid의 항노화 효과

남개원,이소희,김승훈,김수현,성대석,김수남,이병곤 대한화장품학회 2003 대한화장품학회지 Vol.29 No.1

전반적인 피부세포의 생리적 지능 자하로 인한 자연노화와 더불어, 여러 피부 스트레스 요인들이 다양하게 작용하여 발생하는 외인성노화를 방지하거나, 개선할 수 있는 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성을 알아보기 위해, 예로부터 항염활성이 있다고 알려진 oleanolic acid(OA)를 포함한 ursolic acid(UA), betulin, betulinic acid(BA) 등의 triterpenoids가 어떻게 피부에서의 항노화 활성을 나타내는지를 알아보았다. 시험 결과, OA는 자외선에 의한 각질형성세포에서의 PGE2 생성과 섬유아세포(NHF)에 의한 matrix metalloproteinase-1(MMP-1) 분비를 억제하였다. 그리고, NHF의 procollagen 생성을 촉진하였으며, 이런 procollagen 생성촉진활성이 in vivo에서도 발현되는 것을 무모생쥐의 실험을 통해서 확인하였다. 또한 OA는 각질세포의 증식과 분화를 촉진하여 표피세포로 하여금 세라마이므와 필라그린 생성을 증가시키도록 하는 작용도 있음을 보여주었다. 더불어 실험한 UA, betulin, BA 들은 비록, betulin, BA의 경우 세포 독성이 다른 물질 들에 비해 높았고, UA가 각질세포의 분화를 오히려 억제하는 양상을 보이기는 했지만, 대부분의 기능은 OA와 유사하였다. 피부세포보호작용과 진피 기질물질에 대한 작용, 그리고, 표피의 장벽기능과 보습기능에 대해 시험한 본 연구는, 식물성분인 triterpenoids가 피부를 위한 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성이 있음을 확인하는 계기가 되었고, 그 중에서도 OA가 보다 우수한 항노화 소재가 될 수 있음을 시사하고 있다.

심포지엄 : 색소 ; 화장품의 피부색 평가법

남개원 대한피부과학회 2011 초록집 Vol.49 No.20

심포지엄 : 색소 ; 화장품의 피부색 평가법

남개원 대한피부과학회 2011 대한피부과학회 학술발표대회집 Vol.63 No.2

녹용 발효 케라틴 펩타이드에 의한 인체 모발 연구

남개원 사단법인 대한화장품학회 2022 대한화장품학회지 Vol.48 No.4

In this study, keratin peptides were produced through high-temperature anaerobic fermentation of keratin, a protein contained in deer antler, with Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, and factors related to human hair, confirming the possibility of keratin peptides as cosmetic ingredients. As a result of the cytotoxicity and proliferation of deer antler fermented keratin peptide according to the concentration in the dermal papilla cell line, cytotoxicity was not observed and the cell proliferation effect was shown. For human dermal papilla cells, statistically significant increasing in growth factors according to the deer antler fermented keratin peptide was determined possiblity of effects on hair growth. Cosmetic products containing deer antler fermented keratin peptides were manufactured and skin safety and anti hair loss efficacy clinical tests were conducted. As a result, after 12 weeks of use, the total number of hairs statistically significant increased compared to before using the product and the difference in total number of hairs compared to the control group was found. In conclusion, we suggest that the possibility of fermented deer antler keratin peptide as a cosmeceutical ingredient as well as a health functional food material was confirmed. 본 연구에서는 녹용에 함유한 단백질인 케라틴을 Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1로 고온 혐기 발효를 통하여 케라틴 펩타이드를 생산하고, 인체 모발 관련한 인자를 확인하여, 화장품 원료로서 케라틴 펩타이드의가능성을 확인하였다. 모유두 세포주에서 녹용 발효 케라틴 펩타이드를 농도에 따라 세포 독성 및 증식을 확인한결과, 세포 독성은 나타나지 않았고, 세포 증식 효과를 보였다. 인체 모유두 세포에 대하여 녹용 발효 케라틴펩타이드에 따른 성장인자의 증가를 확인하여 모발에 영향을 준다고 판단하였다. 이러한 녹용 발효 케라틴 펩타이드를 함유한 화장품을 제조하여 피부 안전성 및 탈모 증상 완화 인체 효력 시험을 수행한 결과, 사용 12 주후에 제품 사용 전 대비 전체 모발 수의 증가 및 대조군과 비교시 전체 모발 개수의 차이가 통계적으로 유의하게나타났다. 이를 통해 녹용 발효 케라틴 펩타이드는 기능성 화장품 원료뿐만 아니라 건강 기능 식품 소재로의가능성을 확인하였다.

학술대회 자유연제 초록 : Adenophorae Radix 뿌리 추출물에 의한 keratinocyte의 분화 촉진 효과와 피부장벽 기능에 대한 연구

남개원,김승훈,배지현,이해광,문성준,이병곤,장이섭 한국피부장벽학회 2003 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.5 No.1

화장품 원료 중 폴리올, 오일 농도에 따른 피부 보습과 피부 표면 거칠기의 변화

남개원 ( Gae Won Nam ),김승훈 ( Seimg Hun Kim ),김은주 ( Eun Joo Kim ),김진한 ( Jin Han Kim ),채병근 ( Byung Guen Chae ),이해광 ( Hae Kwang Lee ),문성준 ( Seong Joon Moon ),강학희 ( Hak Hee Kang ),장이섭 ( Ih Seop Chang ) 대한화장품학회 2005 대한화장품학회지 Vol.31 No.4

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested 0~27%dml Polyols and 0~35%dml oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

Skin imaging

남개원 ( Gae Won Nam ) 한국피부장벽학회 2008 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.10 No.1

Non-invasive skin imaging techniques have proliferated over the last decade. Whilst most have a research role, some are routinely used in dermatology clinics. Technological advancements have led to the development of various imaging modalities, most of which have been used to image organs in deeper manner within the human body. More recently, attention has focused on the application of imaging technology for evaluation of the skin. A variety of techniques are currently being used to examine the skin. Those techniques include specialized photography, surface microscopy, ultrasound, laser Doppler perfusion imaging, confocal microscopy, and magnetic resonance imaging. These modalities can provide information that can assist in the management of skin problems. Although many of these techniques are still undergoing research, they are showing promise as useful clinical tools in dermatology.

Titanium dioxide with various ξ potential can modulate the effect of skin barrier function

남개원 ( Cae Won Nam ),( Hae Kwang Lee ),( Seong Joon Moon ),( Ih Seop Chang ),( Seung Hun Lee ) 한국피부장벽학회 2007 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.9 No.2

pH에 따른 하이드록시 산(Hydroxy Acid)의 각질 박리 효과 연구

남개원 ( Gaewon Nam*† ) 대한화장품학회 2016 대한화장품학회지 Vol.42 No.4

Hydroxy acid has been used to enhance anti-aging and skin moisturization by peeling effect on the skin stratum corneum, and thus it has been widely used in topical products and cosmetic products. Among them, the effect that appears most effectively in a short period of time has been reported to be effected by the pH of the cosmetic formulations. However, there are many difficulties in use due to irritation caused by pH and concerns about side effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of applying cosmetics with (1) varying concentrations, (2) types and (3) pH of hydroxy acid on human skin. 22 healthy adults were stained with DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and DC (dansyl chloride) on the forearm, and the skin exfoliation effect was measured after application of the test products. (1) The application of GA (glycolic acid) increased the desquamation by concentration dependent. (2) the test product prepared with neutral pH showed no exfoliation effect. In contrast, SA (salicylic acid) showed a statistically significant exfoliation effect at both acidic pH and neutral pH. (3) The neutral pH SA showed excellent exfoliation effect on both DHA and DC stained stratum corneum. These results suggest that it is possible to manufacture safe cosmetics without damaging the skin barrier, providing an opportunity to use cosmetics that are expected to exfoliate to people, whose skin is sensitive to pH.

폴리올을 이용한 각질층 수분량 측정의 표준화 연구

남개원 ( Gaewon Nam ) 대한화장품학회 2015 대한화장품학회지 Vol.41 No.2

The measurement of hydration level in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as softness, flexibility, and healthiness of the skin. But it is difficult to measure a consistent hydration level from a sample to another sample due to individual variations and environmental changes. The aim of this study was to evaluate objective hydration after using various products in the SC. The SC Hydration was measured by capacitance (CorneometerⓇ, C+K, Germany) on the ventral site of forearm from 40 healthy volunteers. The skin surface was chronologically measured immediately after application of the test products and 3 and 6 hours later. We analyzed the averages of five measurements of each site and used the hydration increase rate for correction on untreated site variation. We found that most polyols including glycerol and butylenes glycol influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. In this study, glycerol was used to prepare the standard products from 0 to 20 percents and applied to the same volunteers. The individual standard curve showed linear relation to glycerol concentrations. Based on the the standard curve, hydration of SC was converted into hydration increase rate to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were repetitive and reproducible. In addition, the individual standard curve was used to relate the skin type of each individual. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement.