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高富子 동국대학교 신라문화연구소 2007 신라문화제학술발표논문집 Vol.28 No.-
신라인의 복식에 대한 연구는 쉽지 않다. 특히 1차 자료인 피륙[織物]유물이 없고 史料도 귀하기 때문이다. 그러나 단편적이지만 史料는 中國 史書와 신라의 『三國史記』나 『三國遺事』 등을 참조하고, 視覺자료와 유물로는 고구려의 古墳壁畵와 무덤에서 출토된 金屬製類인 冠이나 허리띠ㆍ신ㆍ목걸이ㆍ귀걸이ㆍ반지류, 土偶나 土俑, 騎馬像, 斷石山 神仙寺의 岩壁에 새겨있는 供養人物像, 國立慶州博物館에 있는 異次頓의 殉敎碑 등으로 보충한다. 본 연구는 이러한 자료를 바탕으로 三國[上古]시대 전반적인 衣生活 槪要 및 삼국통일 전까지의 古新羅期(B.C. 57~A.D. 669년)와 統一新羅期(669~935년)로 나누어 정리하였다. 삼국복식은 남녀공통인 襦ㆍ袴에 여성은 裳을 더한 것이 기본이며, 거기에 表衣로 袍를 덧입었다. 裙ㆍ襦ㆍ袍에는 ?이 있으며, 上衣의 여밈은 帶로 앞과 뒤로 묶었다. 頭飾은 남성의 상투를 틀었고, 冠帽는 幘 折風 弁笠 등이 기본이며 여자의 머리에 대한 자료는 대부분 얹거나 내린 것으로 나타나고 있다. 신은 靴ㆍ鞋ㆍ履를 신었다. 古新羅는 삼국병행기로 襦ㆍ袴와 袍ㆍ裳制가 기본인 固有服飾期이다. 이에 옷차림이나 특히 남성의 冠帽類 및 佩飾, 기타 자료를 통하여 趙 武靈王 이후 胡服이라고 하는 北方騎馬遊牧民의 스키타이계 양식들과 상통하고 있다. 통일신라시대는 法興王 10년(523)에 唐制를 모방한 四色公服을, 眞德王 3년(649)에는 일부 唐制官服을 受用하였다. 이후 土俑이나 834년 興德王代의 服飾禁制 등에서도 唐制의 흔적이 나타나고 있으며, 國俗과 병행하는 二重構造현상이 계속된다. The research of costume of Shilla period(B.C. 57~A.D. 935) was not easy. Especially, the research material of textile was not existed and historical records for that material were rare. Yet, historical record references were used from 『Sam-gooksagi』 and 『Sam-gookyusa』, that is written documents of Shilla period, or used from another documents by Chinese. Visual materials were used from mural paintings in a tumulus of Goguryeo. The archaeological relic was excavated from tombs; for example, metal goods(such as gold crown, belt, shoes, necklace, earring, ring, etc), clay dolls and colourful tomb figures(like Dangsamchae, ceramic jar that mixed three different colors which is green, yellow, white or navy, or terracotta warriors and horses in the tomb of the first emperor of Qin dynasty). Besides, there are sculptures of saddle horse, sculptures of Buddhist carved at rock wall at the Sinseonsa(a Buddhist temple of Gyeongju), martyrize monument of Lee Cha Don, who was the first Buddhism a martyr, at Gyeongju National Museum etc. These materials were used as research supplements. This research was divided into three periods: general outline of costume at Three Kingdoms(Goguryeo, Bakjae, and Shilla), the costume of age-old Shilla period, before the unification of three nations(B.C. 57~A.D. 669) and the costume of Unified Shilla period(A.D. 669~935) Three Kingdoms' costumes were including; jacket and pants(Yugo: Jeogori and Pagi. common costume for men and women), skirt(Sang: Chima. for women) and robe (Po. mostly for women). On the jacket, skirt and robe, there was wider fabric attach, called Seon. For an upper garment there was Dai(waist band) to tie up front and back. Some kind of hair shape and hat is men's topknot(Sangt'u) on the top of the head. The hat is fundamental of Chak, Jerlpung, Byeon and Lip(a large brim hat). The research material of women's hair is rare, but most women put their hair up on the head or down. For the shoes, people were used to wear Wha(like long boot made by leather), Hea(like shoes made by leather), and Li(similar as Hea but this one made by straw and metallicity). The costume of age-old Shilla period belong to the period wearing indigenous style's costume: wearing Yugo or Sang yet. The style of the hat and baldric of this period is very similar to the costume of Scythian style. United Shilla period, they were accepted and used the imitation of four color official costume system of Dang dynasty of China during the reign of King Beopheung(A.D. 523), and the costume style of Dang dynasty during the reign of King Jindeok(A.D. 649). After this Korean traditional costume formed both the indigenous style and the chinese style.