소루쟁이뿌리를 이용한 천연염색 연구

한미란 경상대학교 대학원 2008 국내석사

Natural dyeing has been quickly disappeared since W. H. Perkin discovered first synthetic dye, mouve, in 1856. Recently there has been a great interest and research in natural dyeing as the world has become increasingly aware of environmental issues. Natural dyes have soft and natural colours, noble shades and environmental friendliness. Even though natural dyeing got a great attention recently, natural dyes are not widely used due to their low fastness properties as well as difficulty in extracting and storage in colorant, etc. However, natural dye contains not-refined and complex pigments compared with synthetic dye and it has antifungal and deodorant as well as several tone colors and it reduces the wastes generated by the use of synthesized mordant. In this study compared the dye characteristics and evaluated color fastness under various conditions (concentration, temperature, time, repeat-number, pH, mordant and antibacterial activity). We tested it with cotton and silk. The results were as follows ; The wavelength of maximum absorption of the Rumex crispus L. root extract appeared at 274nm and 336nm. Being in high concentration, K/S values of each fabrics were improved. Dyeability according to dyeing temperature increased until about 80℃ and then decreased over the degree in cotton fabrics while silk was highly increased the environs of 80℃. In case of changes for dyeing time, the ability increased gradually in cotton and silk fabrics as the dyeing time passed on. However, K/S values change was not big. In K/S value of cotton fabrics was decreased over 80min. In repeat-number, cotton fabrics were steadily increased as the number of times and result of silk fabrics were that K/S value was nothing in increase after 2-times. In the effect of cotton fabrics, Sn mordant was better than anything else in K/S value by Pre-mordanting and in case of silk fabrics, Fe mordant was better than anything else in K/S value by post-mordanting. Fastness in test, light and washing fastness were relatively low. cotton and silk with mordanted Fe showed superior light fastness, washing fastness and dry cleaning fastness. Rubbing fastness appeared excellently in dry methods than wet methods. Dyeing with resulted Rumex crispus L. in high antibacterial activity for both cotton and silk. According to dyeing dictionary of natural dyestuff, the dyeing color is different between raw root and dry root. so this study searched the color change of raw root and dry root extract. In the wavelength of maximum absorption, raw root was shifted to longer wavelength. Generally a* value decreased and b* value increased in dry root dyed fabrics than raw root dyed fabrics. Color of raw root appeared by reddish yellow and Color of dry root appeared by yellow. In the color changes of fabrics dyed with Rumex crispus L. raw root extract by various pH, the color appeared at RP-R-YR-Y range. In the color changes of fabrics dyed with dry root extract by various pH, the color appeared at GY-Y-YR-R range. The test of washing fastness was improved dyed by raw root than dyed by dry root. Optical behaviors and dyeing properties of color solution extracted from Rumex crispus L. powder extract were investigated. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the Rumex crispus L. powder extract 280nm and 480nm. The optimum dyeing of cotton was carried out at 30% dye concentration for 60min. The optimum dyeing of silk was carried out at 30% dye concentration for 50min. In repeat-number, cotton and silk fabrics was steadily increased. In the color changes of fabrics dyed by pH appeared at R-YR range. If see K/S value changes by mordant concentration, cotton and silk fabrics were seldom influenced in mordant concentration. At mordant treatment, K/S value of Al, Cu, Sn mordant appeared in pre-mordanting and in post-mordanting Fe mordant high in the case of cotton fabrics. Case of Silk fabrics, K/S value of Al, Sn mordant appeared pre-mordanting and Cu, Fe mordant appeared high in post-mordanting. In test of Fastness, light, washing and dry cleaning fastness were excellent all cotton and silk fabrics by Fe mordant.

염색 시 Pigmentation Technique 방법에 따른, 착색도 및 모발의 변화에 관한 연구 : 시술 직후와 세척 후 비교를 중심으로

박석묵 건국대학교 산업대학원 2020 국내석사

As self-hair dye has recently gained global attention, the relevant market has expanded and bubble-type self-hair dyeing is emerging as an alternative method. Along this move, research is necessary to examine better techniques to improve the problems of dyeing at salons. In particular, it is necessary to seek ways to minimize stains, discoloration, drainage and hair damage that could be seen as problems while dyeing and sustain color. This study thus analyzed surface colors of hairs as well as the dynamic and morphological characteristics to see the color change and degree of damage in comparison with a control group by dyeing discolored and healthy hairs suing a pigmentation technique out of existing dyeing. To this end, 54 hair samples were divided into healthy and discolored hair groups according to the level of damage, classifying into low-bright, medium-bright, high-bright according to dyeing brightness and into red, blue and yellow according to colors. Depending on the pigmentation techniques, the characteristics of hair color and the level of damage were analyzed by conducting non-pigmentation, pre-pigmentation and after-pigmentation. Hair surface colors were measured by using a color-difference meter with different hair samples processed by different pigmentation techniques. Using the measured data, different colors between the control group and the experiment group were noted and compared. In addition, the degree of hair degree were overall measured using a scanning electron microscope (SEM), tensile strength and methylene blue test to identify how such different pigmentation techniques affect hair morphologically and mechanically. The PP and AP groups showed increasing levels of coloration when discolored hairs were dyed in contrast to the NP group, which was statistically significant and different (p<0.05). To see broadly, when discolored hairs were dyed, the PP technique was effective at high-brightness at 14 level, and the AP technique was effective in coloration at medium- and low-brightness under 10 level. When healthy hair was dyed, the PP and AP groups showed the lowest coloration compared to the NP group. Especially for the PP dyeing, a slight variation was noted in all dyeing and found ineffective. The NP's brightness increased to a normal extent, while the AP group showed lower brightness than the NP group. While doing root touch-up, the AP technique can be one of the ways to neutralize brighter hair to a lower brightness level. After magnifying hairs up to 1,000 and 5,000 times using SEM, discolored hairs, compared to healthy hair, and shampooed cuticle, compared to non-shampooed ones, extremely sticked out and peeled off. In average, the NP's cuticle sticked out the least and smoothly shaped. In contrast, the PP's cuticle was the most irregular and had a lot hangnails. This demonstrates that the morphology of the PP group is damaged to a large extent. After tensile strength was conducted to see the level of hair damage, the values decreased in order of NP, AP and PP groups. This shows that the NP group damaged the least, while the PP group damaged the most. To see the level of hair damage, the methylene blue test was conducted, showing that absorbance was high in order of PP, AP and NP groups in average. This indicates that the NP group damaged the least, while the PP group damaged the most. In conclusion, applying a different pigmentation method showed a stark contrast in hair coloration and damage, especially noting that hair dyeing through the experiment group minimizes stains, but elevates coloration. On that note, the pigmentation technique can be an important data to improve the side-effects of dyeing at salons and further an alternative to promote dyeing at salons which was slightly less popular than the widespread self-hair dyeing. 최근 전 세계적으로 자가 시술 염모제가 유행하면서 자가 시술 염모 시장이 커지고, 살롱 염색의 대체 방안으로 거품 타입의 자가 염색의 행위가 유행하고 있다. 이에 따라 앞으로는 살롱 시술 염색의 문제점을 보완하고 만족도를 높여, 살롱 염색의 필요성을 높일 수 있는 기술에 관한 연구가 필요한 실정이다. 특히 염색 시 문제점으로 대두될 수 있는 얼룩, 퇴색, 물빠짐, 모발 손상 등에 대해 얼룩을 최소화하고 색소 유지력을 지속시킬 수 있는 방안이 모색되어져야 한다. 따라서 본 연구는 기존 염색 방법에서 벗어나 pigmentation 기법을 활용하여 탈색모와 건강모에 염색을 진행, 대조군과의 색상변화와 손상 정도를 알아보기 위해 모발 표면색 분석 및 모발의 역학적⋅형태학적 특성을 분석하였다. 이를 위해 모발 시료 54개를 이용하여 손상도에 따라서 건강모군⋅탈색모군으로 나누고 염색 명도에 따라서 저명도군⋅중명도군⋅고명도군, 염색 색상에 따라서 레드⋅블루⋅옐로우로 구분하였으며 pigmentation 기법에 따라서 non-pigmentation⋅pre-pigmentation⋅after-pigmentation 처리하여 모발의 색상과 손상도에 관한 특성을 분석하였다. pigmentation 기법에 따라 다르게 처리한 모발 시료를 색차계를 이용하여 모발 표면색을 측정하였으며, 측정된 데이터를 이용하여 대조군과 실험군 사이의 색차를 구하고 비교하였다. 또한 이러한 염색 기법의 차이가 모발에 어떠한 형태학적, 역학적 영향을 미치는지 알아보기 위하여 주사전자현미경 촬영, 인장강도, 메틸렌블루 시험법 등을 이용하여 종합적으로 모발의 손상도를 측정하였다. 탈색모에 염색을 진행하였을 때는 NP에 비해 PP, AP 그룹에서 모두 착색도가 높아지는 현상이 나타나 통계적으로 유의한 차이를 보였다(p<0.05). 종합적으로 탈색모에서 염색을 진행하였을 때, 14레벨의 고명도에서는 PP 기법의 효과가 좋고, 10레벨 이하의 중명도와 저명도에서는 AP 기법의 착색도가 좋다는 결과가 나타났다. 건강모에 염색을 진행하였을 때, NP에 비해 PP, AP 그룹에서 모두 착색도가 떨어지는 현상이 나타났다. 특히 PP 염색의 경우 모든 염색에서 명도의 변화가 미미하여 염색의 효용성이 떨어짐을 알 수 있었다. NP의 명도변화가 가장 정상적으로 높아지는 형태를 나타냈으며, AP의 경우 NP에 비해 낮은 명도를 나타내었다. 이는 뿌리염색을 진행하였을 때, AP기법을 이용하여 밝아진 모발을 더 낮은 명도로 중화시키는 하나의 기법이 될 수 있음을 알 수 있었다. 주사전자현미경(SEM)을 이용하여 모발을 1000배, 5000배 확대한 결과 건강모에 비해서는 탈색모가, 샴푸 미처리군에 비해서는 샴푸 처리군의 모표피의 들뜸과 박리가 심하게 일어났으며 평균적으로 NP의 모표피가 가장 들뜸이 없고 매끄러운 형상을 띄고 있었다. PP의 경우 모표피가 가장 불규칙하고 거스러미가 많이 발견되는 형태를 보였는데 이는 PP군의 형태학적 손상도가 가장 크다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 모발의 손상도를 알아보기 위해 인장강도를 실시한 결과 NP>AP>PP 그룹 순으로 인장강도 값이 작아짐을 나타냈는데, 이는 NP 그룹의 손상도가 가장 적고 PP 그룹의 손상도가 가장 크다는 것을 보여준다. 모발의 손상도를 알아보기 위해 메틸렌블루를 실시한 결과 평균적으로 PP>AP>NP 그룹 순으로 흡광도가 커졌으며, 이는 NP 그룹의 손상도가 가장 적고 PP 그룹의 손상도가 가장 크다는 것을 보여준다. 결론적으로 염색 시 pigmentation 방법을 다르게 하면 모발 착색도 및 손상도 부분에서 확연한 차이를 보였으며, 특히 실험군을 통한 모발 염색은 얼룩을 최소화하고 착색력을 높인다는 사실을 발견하였다. 따라서 이러한 pigmentation 기법은 살롱 염색의 부작용을 보완할 수 있는 하나의 중요한 자료가 될 수 있으며 나아가 현재 유행하고 있는 자가 염모 시술에 의해 저조해진 살롱 염색을 활성화할 수 있는 하나의 대체 방안이 될 수 있을 것이다.

천연염색 체험학습 프로그램의 실태와 개선방안 : 중학생프로그램 중심으로

전유선 인하대학교 교육대학원 2009 국내석사

천연염색 견직물의 색채감성이미지

양영애 제주대학교 일반대학원 2010 국내석사

본 연구에서는 국내외 시판되고 있는 천연염료를 염색조건을 달리하여 견직물을 염색하고, 다양한 색채를 발현시켜 그 특성을 분석한 후, 천연염색 견직물의 색채감성 이미지 요인을 규명하여 색상과 톤, 염료와 매염에 따른 색채감성 이미지 요인의 차이를 고찰하고 색채감성 이미지 형용사와 색채와의 관계를 시각화한 색채감성 이미지 스케일을 구축․제안하고자 하였다. 색상별로 선정한 다양한 국내․외 시판 고농축 분말형 천연염료로 동일 견직물에 단일염색과 복합염색, 염액 농도와 매염제 종류 등의 염색 조건을 달리하여 283종의 천연염색 견직물 색채 데이터를 구축하고, 색상과 톤, 염료 및 단일/복합 염색에 따라 색상/톤의 색채 특성을 분석하였다. 천연염색 견직물의 색채를 대표할 수 있는 천연염색 견직물 66종의 색채를 자극물로 하여 I.R.I 색채 이미지 스케일의 주요 형용사를 이용한 주관적인 색채 감성 평가를 실시하였다. 데이터 분석기법으로는 빈도분석과 요인분석, 일원배치 분산분석, 다차원 척도법을 사용하였다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 천연염색 견직물의 주요 색상은 YR과 Y였으며, 주로 치자황 색소, 황토, 석류, 빈랑자, 오배자의 염색에 의하여 발현되었다. 그밖에 R과 RP, B 색상이 주로 발현되었으며 복합염색에 의하여 단일염색에서 발현 빈도가 적었던 GY와 G, BG, B, PB, R, RP의 색상이 가능하였으므로, 천연염색 견직물의 다양한 색상 발현은 복합 염색에 의하여 가능한 것으로 사료되었다. 천연염색 견직물의 색상에 따른 톤 특성을 분석한 결과, 천연염색 견직물의 주요 톤은 d와 ltg, g의 톤이였으며, 주요 색상인 YR과 Y색상에서 가장 다양한 톤을 발현하였다. R색상에서는 주로 dk, d, dkg, dp의 톤이, GY와 G, BG의 색상에서는 p톤과 ltg톤이 발현되었다. 또한 천연염색 견직물의 톤을 다양하게 하는 데에는 단일 염색에서 매염제 종류가 가장 큰 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다. 천연염색 견직물의 색채감성 이미지 요인으로 유쾌성, 자연성, 현대성, 매력성의 4개의 요인이 추출되었다. 유쾌성 요인은 B색상의 b, v톤, Y-b 색상-톤 조합, 치자황 염료, 알루미늄 매염일 경우 가장 높게 평가 받았으며, 자연성 요인은 RP색상, p, ltg톤, GY-ltg 색상-톤 조합 또는 빈랑자 염료에서 가장 자연적으로 인지되었다. 현대성 요인에서는 BG색상 및 p톤, G-ltg 색상-톤 조합, 생쪽 염료와 철 매염일 경우, 가장 정적으로 평가 받았으며, 매력성 요인은 RP, R색상, dk톤, RP-d 색상-톤 조합, 오배자, 랙 염료, 알루미늄 매염일 때 가장 높게 평가 받았다. 이상의 결과를 토대로 색채감성 이미지 형용사와 천연염색 견직물 색채의 상대적 위치를 고려하여 천연염색 색채감성 이미지 스케일을 구축하여 제시하였다. Static-Natural 차원에서는 꼭두서니, 오배자 등의 염료로 알루미늄 매염을 통해 발현된 Y, BG색상과 g, ltg톤의 색채로 내추럴하다, 소박하다, 편안하다 등의 형용사를 포함하여 위치하였고, Dynamic-Natrual 차원의 색채는 치자황과 치자청, 생쪽등의 염료로 알루미늄, 구리 매염을 통해 발현된 B, Y 색상과 ltg, b 톤 등의 색채로 맑다, 부드럽다 등의 형용사가 위치하며, Static-Urban 차원의 색채는 랙, 오배자 염료, 알루미늄 또는 철 매염으로 발현된 R, Y 색상, dkg, ltg 톤 등의 색채 특성과 실용적이다, 클래식하다 등의 형용사가 위치하였다. 또한 Dynamic-Urban 차원의 색채는 홍화씨, 꼭두서니 등의 염료, 알루미늄 또는 구리 매염으로 발현된 YR, R 색상과 s, d 톤 등의 색채 특징과 함께 스포티하다, 화려하다 등의 형용사가 포함되었다. 본 연구는 다양한 염료와 색채를 대상으로 한 최초의 천연염색 견직물의 색채 감성 이미지 스케일에 대한 연구로서, 본 연구에서 제안한 색채 감성 이미지 스케일은 천연염색 직물의 색채에 대한 소비자의 감성을 예측하는 데에 활용할 수 있다. 나아가 천연염색 직물 및 의류의 생산, 설계 및 상품개발 전략을 수립할 수 있는 기초 데이터로 활용될 수 있을 것이다.

自然染色의 高 堅牢成과 洗濯堅牢度 硏究 : 황토, 감, 쑥

박경순 대구가톨릭대학교 2007 국내박사

Natural dyeing is dye fabric with extracts from nature. Extract colors from natural material, and send back to nature rest of material as part of naturalization process. Sometimes mineral or animal material is used, but most of time our traditional natural dyeing is done by leaves, stem, flowers, fruits, bark of tree, roots, using these material and making beautiful natural colors. Furthermore, natural dyeing can bring out beautiful unique colors, middle colors and various tones that chemical dyeing can not express. That is why natural dyeing can give as well comfort for human as benefit for our body. As I explained above, natural dye has many benefits for human, however when you laundry natural dyed fabric with regular detergent sometimes color is affected and turn into dark due to interaction with mineral or alkali. Especially as what we see from research about chemical dyeing with green persimmon, tannin which is in persimmons interact with alkali and result radical color change. So choosing suitable detergent is very important issue. As modern times, people prefer well-being product, demand of natural dyed fabric is continuously increasing but there is no suitable detergent for natural dyed fabric to satisfy demands and efficiency. I consider these issues, and research about several different ways and furthermore compare regular detergent with new detergent to study about strength. I choose the most common laundry ingredient for natural dye such as persimmon, wormwood, and mud, and suggest result based on mutuality dyeing strength test. Especially I will suggest advantage of persimmon, mud, wormwood as detergent ingredient and show how to keep natural dyed color by using detergent produced by wormwood, mud and greentea. Also dyeing method to increase laundry strength of natural dyed fabric, and suggest what is good laundry method and detergent to keep original condition of natural dyeing. I intend to contribute to modern industry through this research to suggest suitable laundry method for natural dyeing, and to satisfy natural dyeing users. Research area To satisfy goal of this research, I will study meaning and history of natural dye and study about high strength dyeing limited to persimmons, mud, wormwood dyeing. Test with these ingredient and detergent will show what is new possible ingredient to maintain high strength dyeing. Especially mineral dyeing release far infrared ray, it is better to use detergent which can neutralize it. I choose mud as mineral ingredient and wormwood as vegetation ingredient and persimmons. Mud neutralize toxic and wormwood has been recognized as valuable medicine and persimmons is generally recognized to have advantage for maintaining high strength for laundry and have natural antibiotic and increase stability of human body. Furthermore, I will study about dyeing method to increase strength and analyze and show results of efficient detergent to maintain strength for laundry. Research method There are 8 chapters for this research, on second chapter shows meaning and history of natural dyeing and on third chapter I will show meaning of high strength natural dye for persimmons, wormwood, and mud dyeing. On fourth chapter, will discuss about finding of detergent and origin of word and ingredient, and advantage of natural detergent and importance of it. On fifth chapter I will show relavancy test of detergent and dyeing and develop this test to advantage of natural ingredient. On sixth chapter, through test detergent manufacturing I will show advantage of wormwood, mud, and greentea detergent. On seventh chapter, test of ph level for detergent and color change test of natural detergent and regular detergent will be discussed, and for the last on eighth chapter, I will analyze strength test and results of computer color matching (CCM) and show data for nurtural detergent to maintain high strength for natural dyed fabric. Also persimmon dyeing has antiseptic, waterproof, and ultraviolet rays protection. I found it Gyeongbuk Chungdogun Iesomien and sundry twice. Mud Yellow earth mud dyeing is called medical action dyeing method. I found mud which is been used at a red tide time around Uljin area then kept the mud for one year to use for this research. Compare result from bean juice dyeing with abstract and nonabstract dyeing. I found wormwood at Gyeongbuk Andongcity Gilan area at July, and dyeing 5 times repeatedly. Also for study of laundry high strength, using cotton, silk, and artifical silk, and dye these fabric with persimmons, mud and wormwood. Laundry these dyed fabrics with one wool detergent and one vegetarian detergent among regular alkali detergent, powder detergent, and neutral detergent. Natural detergent that I made used wormwood, greentea and mud as ingredient. Wormwood is used for stomachache, vomiting, stopping blood and smoke out mosquitoes. Greentea is used for antivirus, antibiotic and anti-allergy. Mud is used for anti-toxic and release far infrared ray. There are total 7 kinds of detergent and each of detergent will show result after laundry and before laundry. After compare color, measure ph level through test, color deference test result is sent to Korea silk research institute to analyze with computer color matching (CCM) so that this research will contribute for developing new natural detergent and cumulate data for industry.

朝鮮時代 帖裏色의 染色硏究 : 紅色系 帖裏를 中心으로

이의정 淑明女子大學校 1986 국내석사

수천년에 걸친 우리 고유의 染色文化가 있었음에도 불구하고, 1890年代 合成染料가 出現한 以後 古代染色文化는 사실상 단절되었다. 本 論文의 目的은 우리의 傳統 染色文化의 歷史와 特性을 硏究할 뿐 아니라 나아가서 傳統染色法의 再現과 아직 손상되지 않은 遺物帖裏의 保存을 爲하여 實驗을 통해 傳統染色을 연구하려는 것이다. 따라서 本 論文에서는 傳統染色의 우수성을 고찰하고 잃어버린 우리의 傳統色을 다시찾기 위하여, 朝鮮時代 中期에 쓰여졌고, 그 時代의 染色法이 가장 풍부하게 記錄되어 있는 「閨閤叢書」를 中心으로 朝鮮時代 帖裏의 染料 및 染色法에 관하여 實驗 硏究 하였다. 硏究方法으로는 문헌해제와 現存하는 遺物 帖裏를 中心으로 다루었다. 帖裏의 着用範圍는 王이하 士大夫, 別監, 樂工, 庶人에 이르기까지 上下 구별없이 使用되었으며, 계급의 구별은 옷의 色, 材料 等에 의해 구별되었다. 制度上에 나타난 帖裏의 色은 堂上官은 藍色, 堂下官은 靑玄色, 郊外 動駕時는 紅色이었으나, 이러한 制度는 시대가 흐름에 따라 조금씩 變化되어 갔다. 帖裏는 男子의 외투로서 그 形態가 허리에서 上衣와 下裳으로 연결되어 있으며, 上衣 깃모양은 直領이고 소매의 초기형태는 좁았으며 下裳에는 주름이 잡혀있는 袍의 一種이라고 하겠다. 우리나라에서의 정확한 着用時期는 알 수 없으나 다만 高麗時代의 歌辭인 정석가에 '털릭'이란 단어가 나옴으로써 고려시대에도 着用했으리라고 추측할 수 있으며 朝鮮時代에 들어와서 制度上으로 확실시된 服飾이라 하겠다. 遺物은 全部 朝鮮時代의 것이며 實測圖를 通해 형태의 變化像을 考察했다. 紅花, 蘇方木, 紫草, 鬱金 等의 染料는 그 産地와 採取時期 및 保管狀態에 따라 發色이 一定하지 않았다. 따라서 植物染色은 여러가지 우수성을 갖고 있는 反面에 그에 의한 傳統色相을 再現하는데는 여러가지 어려움이 있었다. 이제 우리는 傳統衣裳과 여러 가지 傳統染色을 사용함으로써 우리고유의 色인 전통染色의 부흥에 힘써야 하겠다. 그것은 우리의 전통문화를 保存할 뿐 아니라 工業開發의 側面에서도 매우 뜻깊은 일이라고 할 수 있겠다. In spite of long time maintain over several thousand years, the ancient dyeing culture were cut off when synthetic dyes which began to appear our markets in 1890's. The purpose of this thesis is not only to explore the history and characteristics of these ancient dye culture but to study traditional dyeing method for helping revive and preserve dyeing into non polluted CHEOBLI by experiment. Thus, in this thesis to find superiority of traditional dyeing and traditional colors of our country, I'm going to study about dyes and dyeing methods used in Cho-Sun dynasty by experiment faithful to KYU HAP CHONG SUE. The way of study is mainly taken by instruction of books and remains. CHEOBLI was generally worn by every status, that is, a king, an illustrious official, a special auditor, a musical craftman and the common people worn the dress. According to status, it's color and material are different. In institution the color of CHEOBLI is like; the color of Dang Sang Kwan (the upper grade) is navy blue, that of Danghakwan (the lower grade) is celadon. When they train a horse in the suburbs, they wear a red clothes. This system changes according to pass of times. CHEOBLI looks like a man's overcoat, and it is connects the upside with the dawnside in the waist. It is a peculiarity that the upside is Jigyoung and a sleeve is narrow and the downside is wrinkled in the waist. It is impossible for us to know the time of wearing, but we can suppose that it is worn in the time of the Goryea Dynasty. Because we find the word "Teollik" in "JeongSeockga" which is a poem intended to be song. And it becomes a certain dress in the time of the Yi Dynasty. All remains was in the time of the Yi Dynasty and I studied the changed image of form through an ordinance map of survey measurement. Safflower, Sappan, Japanese-touchwood, Curcumalong demand difficult handling and take many times to complete its proces. It thus appears that natural coloring by plants have many superiority but it have some difficulty to revive traditional colors. Now we should make the traditional dyeing prosper by using it in the field of the traditional clothes and folk crafts. It will have great value not only in the view point of preservation of tradition culture, but also in regard to industrial enterprise.

染色工藝와 그의 服飾利用에 關한 考察

송순영 淑明女子大學校 1980 국내석사

寒暑나 外部的 환경에서 身體를 보호하기 위해 衣服着用의 必要性을 느끼던 人間은 처음에는 주의에서 손쉽게 구할 수 있는 自然物에서 습득하던 것을 知的 能力이 發達함에 따라 動植物에서 纖維를 채취하여 피륙을 짜서 着用하게 되었다. 그후 産業革命을 계기로 급속히 發達한 紡織技術과 合成染料의 出現을 보게 되어 古代로부터 면면히 명맥을 이어오던 染色術도 Print化한 大量生産 체제로 바뀜으로서 現代人의 日常生活에 중요한 위치를 차지하게 되었다. 그러나 純粹染色工藝는 裝飾的이고 審美的인 美的 意識을 추구하는 作品을 製作하기에 급급한 實情인바, 本稿는 이러한 純粹作品 製作에 국한되었던 染色工藝의 技法들을 다양하게 變化 發展시켜 情緖感覺이 둔화된 現代人에게 特有한 紋樣을 가진 fashion을 演出시킴으로써 조금이라도 日常生活에 應用 發展시켜 보는데 그 意義를 찾을 수 있겠다. 機械文明에 시달린 現代人은 自然을 憧憬하고 情緖的인 면을 稀求함에 따라 服飾에서도 個性的이고 특수한 紋樣을 願하게 되었으며, 오로지 자기 혼자만 갖고 싶어하는 稀貴性을 잠재적으로 품고 있는바, 여기에 美的 價値와 染色工藝의 各種 染法을 調和 應用한 服飾을 만드는 것이 이와 같은 제반 문제를 해결하는 실마리가 되지 않을까 한다. 또한 産業的인 測面에서도 纖維工業이 輸出産業의 중요한 몫을 차지하는 韓國的 現實에서 美的 感覺을 살린 手工藝的인 染法을 服飾에 應用하여 製品化함으로서 質的 우위를 통한 國際市場 점유에서 유리한 자리를 차지하는 길이라 하겠다. Owing to highly developed industries, peoples have been troubled from material civilization and gradually have being desired nature and pecurial patterns rather than mechanical or fixed ones in the fields of dyeing crafts. Also they want more rare patterns which other peoples can not get in hand. In this connection, this thesis was emphasized on the expression of the individual and creative sense of beauty of clothes through the method of handcraft by using various dyeing techniques. Batik, Variegation, Broad stitching, Board & Block printing, Starching and description among the various dyeing methods was treated in this thesis. We can get various and liveral patterns by the dyeing process from Batik, Starchy and Description and their dyeing effects are more clear and colourful compared with pringtings, because their techniques are dyed with brush. There is no smell in Starchy dyeing whereas Batiks have. But in Batik and Starchy techniques, it is troublesome to treat the colth smoothly by removing their waxes and starchs completely which is used in the process of their dyeing. Tie, Stitch and Board dyeings are quite different from above methods. Geometrical patterns like line and disk can be expressed as a negative designs in these process and linked up modern engraving as to characterized in wrinkled blister. Block printing are the dyeing method which can be dyed at large quantities by using of wood block and have characteristics to express beautiful wood grain vividly. To conclude above mentioned dyeing methods; 1. By using above techniques, we can get molding effects on clothes compared with general printings or weaving materials. 2. We can dye at our will even though the colors of print materials are limited. 3. It is quite simple to mix the dyestuffs and so we can learn their techniques easily. 4. It is possible to work without much facilities. Through the above mentioned process of dyeing arts, we can get unique effects to coincide with modern peoples who seek the individualities. But even if we create the wonderful masterpiece by their methods, it is very difficult to got superial materials because it would lost their beauty due to decoloration or contamination if the colors would not fix on them. Fortunately silk is natural fibre which is produced in our country as a traditional industries, and has excellent clear dyeing effects as well as color fixing capacity, so that we can make a good works of art from silk. In this thesis, I have tried to find out the significance of the individual effects from various techniques of dyeing craft by using them on clothes and furthermore give smallest satisfaction to modern peoples who have desired natural and pecurial arts. Also I have studied them as to be contributed to the export industries and settled as ourselves dyeing techniques in our country by cultivating various dyeing methods.

친환경 제주감물염색 패션제품의 지각된 혜택과 위험이 소비가치와 구매의도에 미치는 영향 연구 : 원산지 이미지 조절효과를 중심으로

신은지 국민대학교 디자인대학원 2022 국내석사

With the rapid change and development of modern society, people have become convenient and enriched, but environmental pollution and its side effects are serious. At the International Conference of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) in March 2018, under the theme Fashion and Sustainable Development Goals: The Role of the United Nations, the impact of the fashion industry on the global environment is being underestimated. The biggest problem in the fashion industry is the increasing use of chemicals needed for dyeing and processing, energy used to produce clothing, and pesticides for cotton cultivation. As a result, there is a concern that the pollution around the world will continue to expand, especially the wastewater and wastes generated during the dyeing process are the main cause of environmental pollution, and the human health hazards generated during the manufacturing and handling of synthetic dyes are serious. Eco-friendly dyeing fashion products are products that are dyed by eco-friendly dyeing as a category of sustainable fashion, which is a clothing product produced in a sustainable way to reduce environmental and social problems in the process of acquiring materials, which is the main raw material of clothing products. For example, dyeing fabrics using water-free dyeing, bacterial dyeing, natural dyeing, and the like. In this way, sustainability is realized in the dyeing process in various ways, but research on eco-friendly dyeing fashion products is insignificant. Currently, fashion brands are producing products using eco-friendly dyeing methods such as indigo zero technique and bacterial dyeing method, but there is a lack of development of apparel products that meet the needs of consumers and provision of services accordingly. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct practical research on eco-friendly dyed fashion products. Recently, Jeju Island, a representative tourist destination in Korea, has been reexamined due to the global attention to K-culture and the change in valuation of tradition. In particular, persimmon dyeing, which is an old tradition of Jeju Island, is a representative eco-friendly dyeing fashion product so that there is a term that refers to persimmon dyeing clothing products separately. Based on the Value-based Adoption Model reflecting the consumer's point of view, this study analyzes the impact of perceived benefits and sacrifices of eco-friendly dyeing fashion products on purchase intention by mediating the consumer's perceived consumption value, and verifies the moderating role of origin image among variables. The purpose of this study is to investigate the consumer behavior of eco-friendly dyed products and to utilize them as empirical data for collecting effective marketing strategies for eco-friendly dyed fashion products in the future. This study conducted an online survey to empirically examine the research questions, targeting domestic male and female consumers with an average age of 41.31, and asked them to respond to the survey by reminding them of eco-friendly dyed fashion products presented in the questionnaire. A total of 300 copies of the collected responses were statistically analyzed using the Python 3.9.12 program. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the perceived benefits of eco-friendly dyed fashion products have a significant effect on the perceived consumption value. Health and eco-friendliness benefits have a positive effect on functional value and environmental value, and personality seeking benefits have a positive effect on functional value, rare value, and environmental value. The natural beauty benefits were found to have a positive effect on the rare value and the environmental value. The economic risk, which is the perceived risk of eco-friendly dyeing, had a negative effect on the rare value, the aesthetic risk had a negative effect on the functional value, the rare value, and the environmental value, and the clothing management risk had a negative effect on the functional value. The functional value and the rare value, which are the perceived consumption values, confirmed the positive (+) effect on the purchase intention of eco-friendly dyeing fashion products, and the control effect of the origin image was confirmed in the effect of health and eco-friendly benefits on the rare value and the effect of individuality seeking benefits on the environmental value. In the perceived risk, the moderating effect of the image of origin was confirmed in the effect of clothing management risk on the rare value. This study is significant in that it conducted an empirical study on eco-friendly dyed fashion products, which have rarely been dealt with in sustainable fashion. It has academic significance in that it subdivided the perceived benefits and risks of eco-friendly dyeing, identified the impact relationship between the image of origin and purchase intention by classifying the perceived consumption value of eco-friendly dyeing fashion products, and quantitatively analyzed it. In addition, it is differentiated in that it has been expanded from the study of regional origin for agricultural and special products to fashion products and adopted as a moderating variable. The results of this study not only help to develop eco-friendly dyed fashion products, but also provide implications for establishing marketing strategies for eco-friendly dyed clothing products. 현대사회의 급격한 변화와 발전으로 사람들은 편리해지고 풍요로워졌지만 환경오염과 그에 따른 부작용은 심각한 상황이다. 2018년 3월 유엔 유럽 경제위원회(UNECE)의 국제회의에서 ‘패션과 지속가능한 개발 목표: 유엔의 역할은’이란 주제 아래 패션산업이 지구환경에 미치는 영향력이 과소평가 되고 있음을 알렸다 패션산업에서 가장 문제시되는 것은 염색 및 가공에서 필요한 화학물질, 의류 생산에 쓰이는 에너지와 면화 재배를 위한 살충제 사용 등의 증가하고 있다는 점이다. 이로 인해 전 세계 오염이 계속적으로 더 확대될 것이라는 우려가 제기되고 있다. 그 중에서도 염색과정에서 생기는 폐수와 폐기물은 환경오염의 주범이며 합성염료의 제조나 취급과정에서 발생하는 인체 유해성이 심각한 수준이다. 친환경염색 패션제품이란 지속가능한 패션이 한 범주로서 친환경염색 방법으로 염색한 제품을 뜻한다. 의류제품의 주 원료인 소재 획득과정에서 환경과 사회에 미치는 문제를 감소시키고 지속가능한 방법으로 생산된 의류제품이다. 예를 들면 물을 사용하지 않는 염색이나 박테리아를 활용한 염색, 천연염색 등과 같은 방법으로 직물을 염색한다. 이처럼 다양한 방식으로 염색과정에서 지속가능을 실현하고 있으나 친환경염색 패션제품에 관한 연구는 미미한 실정이다. 현재 패션 브랜드들이 인디고제로기법이나 박테리아 염색법 등과 같은 친환경염색법을 활용해 제품을 생산하고 있지만 소비자들의 니즈에 발맞춘 의류제품개발은 물론 이에 따른 서비스 제공이 부족하다. 따라서 친환경염색 패션제품에 대한 실무적인 연구가 필요한 실정이다. 최근 K-culture에 대한 세계적인 주목과 전통에 대한 가치평가의 변화로 인해 한국의 대표적 관광지인 제주도가 재조명되고 있다. 특히 제주도의 오래된 전통인 감물염색은 감물염색 의류제품을 따로 지칭하는 용어가 있을 정도로 대표적인 친환경염색 패션제품이다. 이에 본 연구는 전통 친환경 염색 기법인 감물염색 기법에 특화하여 진행하고자 한다. 소비자의 관점을 반영하여 가치기반 수용모델을 바탕으로 친환경염색 패션제품이 지각된 혜택과 희생이 소비자의 지각된 소비가치를 매개하여 구매의도에 미치는 영향을 분석하고, 원산지 이미지가 변인들 사이에서 어떠한 조절 역할을 하는지 검증하려 한다. 이를 통해 친환경염색 제품에 대해 소비자들의 소비 행동을 연구하고 향후 친환경염색 패션제품에 관한 실효성 있는 마케팅 전략수집의 실증적인 자료로 활용하고자 한다. 본 연구는 연구 문제를 실증적으로 규명하기 위해 온라인 설문조사를 실시하였다. 평균 41.31세의 국내 남녀 소비자 대상으로 조사되었으며 설문지에 제시된 친환경염색 패션제품을 연상하면서 설문에 응답하도록 하였다. 수집된 응답 자료 총 300부를 Python 3.9.12 프로그램을 사용하여 통계분석을 하였다. 연구 결과, 친환경염색 패션제품의 지각된 혜택들은 지각된 소비가치에 유의한 영향을 미치는 것으로 확인되었다. 건강·친환경성 혜택은 기능적 가치와 환경적 가치에 정(+)의 영향을 미치고 개성추구 혜택은 기능적, 진귀적, 환경적 가치에 정(+)의 영향을 미쳤다. 자연미 혜택은 진귀적 가치와 환경적 가치에 정(+)의 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다. 친환경염색의 지각된 위험인 경제적 위험은 진귀적 가치, 심미적 위험은 기능적 가치, 진귀적 가치, 환경적 가치에 부(-)의 영향을 미쳤으며 의복관리 위험은 기능적 가치에 부(-)의 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다. 지각된 소비가치인 기능적 가치와 진귀적 가치는 친환경염색 패션제품 구매의도에 미치는 정(+)의 영향을 확인했으며 건강·친환경 혜택이 진귀적 가치에 미치는 영향과 개성 추구혜택이 환경적 가치에 미치는 영향에서 원산지 이미지의 조절효과를 확인할 수 있었다. 지각된 위험에서는 의복관리 위험이 진귀적 가치에 미치는 영향에서 원산지 이미지의 조절효과가 확인되었다. 본 연구는 그동안 지속가능 패션에서 거의 다루어지지 않았던 친환경염색 패션제품에 대한 실증적 연구를 진행했다는 점에서 의의를 지닌다. 친환경염색의 지각된 혜택과 위험의 하위요인을 세분화했으며 친환경염색 패션제품의 지각된 소비가치를 구분하여 원산지 이미지, 구매의도 간의 영향 관계를 규명하고, 정량적으로 분석하였다는 점에서 학술적 의의를 가진다. 그리고 농·특산물을 대상으로 한 지역 원산지 연구에서 패션제품으로 확장하였으며 조절변인으로 채택했다는 점에서 차별화된다. 이러한 연구 결과는 친환경염색 패션제품 개발에 도움이 될 뿐 아니라 친환경 염색의류제품의 마케팅 전략을 수립하는데 있어 시사점을 제공한다.

향장 월계수를 이용한 천연염색 연구 : 염색성 및 향균성

배기현 慶北大學校 大學院 2004 국내석사

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace which cannot be obtained by synthetic dyestuff and reactionism in fashion. The natural dyestuffs are harmlessness to human body, and it is easy to get them. Also, the natural dyestuffs are environmentally friendly, which is the another merit for natural dyeing. In addition, some of plants have been used as home remedies from long time ago in many countries. It is known that Laurel Tree has a good aroma and it is effective in anti-bacterial property, diabetes, headache, paralysis, hypotension, deodorization, stamina, resting from fatigue and interception of electron wave from many electronic machines· a water vein. The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability, Color-fastness and antibacterial property of Cotton and Silk fabric of the natural dyeing with Laurus. Dyeability with Laurus was tested under conditions of various time, temperature, concentration, repeat-number and mordants as well as antibacterial property. After that, the results of dyeability in dyed fabrics with Laurus was figured out by calculating K/S values, CIELab showed colors of each fabric dyed in various condition and color-fastness was estimated by washing and light-fastness as grade. The results are as follows ; 1) According to various conditions of the natural dyeing with Laurus, generally dyeability of Silk fabric was much higher than cotton fabric compare with K/S values of each fabrics. 2) In case of changes for dyeing time, the ability increased gradually in Cotton and Silk fabric as the dyeing time passed on. However, cotton is expected not to increase any more over 90min through the result that there was nothing in increase range over the time. 3) Cotton and Silk fabric were the best in 100% as concentrations. 4) Dyeability according to dyeing temperature increased until about 70℃ and then decreased over the degree in Cotton fabric while Silk was increased until about 80℃ and then decreased over the degree. Almost it agree with general true that dyeability increases approximately until about 60℃∼70℃ in Cotton fabric and 80℃ in Silk and then decreases over the degree. 5) In repeat-number, Cotton and Silk fabric was steadily increased until 4-times. 6) Effect of Cotton fabric dyed with various mordants were improved by dyeing with Fe and Cu mordant in dyeability, even Silk was the same as Cotton. In the color change of cotton fabric, the color of Cu mordant is beige, Fe mordant is yellowish brown and Al, Cr, Na mordant are bright-beige. In the color change of Silk fabric, the color of Cu mordant is light-green, Fe mordant is light-brown, Al mordant is bright-yellow, Cr mordant is yellow green and Na mordant is light-beige. 7) Generally the washing-fastness of Cotton fabric was almost 2 level better than Silk and in the Lightning-fastness, Cotton and Silk fabric had good grades without relating to mordants except Al and Fe mordant. 8) Antibacterial property was more excellent at dyed Silk than dyed Cotton fabric and Fe-post mordant as well, but the latter is because this result is supposed to improve the antibacterial effect when Fe-mordant is used as mordant.

뉴레이온(코셀)직물의 양이온화와 천연염색

김하연 경북대학교 일반대학원 2019 국내석사

(Abstract) Conventional rayon is a high-quality fiber material that has a good gloss and feel like silk, has excellent drape and is easy to wear with good moisture. But the downside is that we use a lot of toxic chemicals, so many researchers have been working on developing new rayons that can replace the ones that are harmful to the human body during the textile manufacturing process. As a result, the rayon has developed a new method of making rayon using the new solvent, which is the prototype of the new rayon fiber. New rayon fibers are stronger than other rayon fibers and have a smaller drop in strength during wetting. In addition, as the main ingredient of the new rayon fibers is cellulose, the dye can be dyed with all dye used in other cellulose fibers, direct dyeing, reactive dyeing and bat dyeing. In this study, we wanted to natural dye new rayon fiber, but it was expected that natural dye would be difficult. One of the biggest problems with natural dye stuff is that most of the natural dye stuff are anionoid ions, so dyeing is difficult for regenerated cellulose fibers including those that show a weak anionoid ion in aqueous solution. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce a functional group to improve the chromatin of natural dye for cellulose fibers. One way introduce a functional group to cellulose is cationization to improve dyeing property. About the experiment method, frist, the cationized new rayon fiber was manufactured by the fourth ammonium in the cationization process of new rayon fabric. Second, dyeing thread concentration(K/S) of the cationized new rayon fiber was evluated following the concentration of gallnut, phellodendron and dyeing temperatue and dyeing, the concentration of CA. And it also evaluated the fastness properties testing the dyeing durability(washing, light) And the aquired improtant result are summarized to as follows 1. The results of the elemental analysis showed that the cations were incorporated into the New Rayon. In addition, the FT-IR and X-ray analyses show that the cation agent did not significantly affect the micro-structure of the new rayon fibers. It is deemed that cationization is effective in dyeing affinity. 2. Synthesizing the result of dyeing property in gallnut. (1) Dyeing characteristics according to the concentration of gallnut, the K/S of new rayon fiber tended to increase smoothly with increasing the concentration of the cation agents, regardless of the presence of the cation agents. the 150%(o.w.f) of the cation agents is the highest. In addition, the K/S of the cationized new rayon fiber (RCA2.0) tended to be twice as high as the untreated new rayon fiber (RCA0). (2) Dyeing characteristics according to the dyeing temperature, the K/S of new rayon fiber (RCA2.0) tended to increase smoothly without significant changes. (3) The dyeing characteristics according to the dye time, the K/S of new rayon fiber reach saturation early in the dyeing time tended to changed a little bit. (4) Dyeing characteristics according to the concentration of the cation agent, the K/S of new rayon fiber (RCA2.0) is the highest. 3. Synthesizing the result of dyeing property in phellodendron. (1) The dyeing characteristics according to the concentration of phellodendron, the K/S of the cationized new rayon fiber (RCA2.0) teneded to be higher than the untreated new rayon fiber(RCA0) except 50% of all the case. In addition, the 200%(o.w.f) of the cation agents is the highest. (2) Dyeing characteristics of according to the dyeing temperature, the K/S of new rayon fiber decreased after 60°C. (3) The dyeing characteristics according to the dye time, the K/S of new rayon fiber increases smoothly up to 20 minutes, and then is almost saturated after 20 minutes. It is believed that the combination of berberine and fiber, the main pigment component of the phellodendron was saturated early on. (4) Dyeing characteristics according to the concentration of the anionic agent, the K/S of new rayon fiber tended to have no significant changes in the K/S of cationized the new rayon fiber. regardless of the amount of dye, it is believed to be due to the increased resistance of the new rayon fiber and the phellodendron. 4. New rayon fiber's color fastness to washing according to the concentration of the cation agent, it is 3 to 4 grades without major changes. new rayon fiber's color fastness to light according to the the increase of concentration of the cation agent, all of color fastness to light is 1 grade. the cation agents were not as effective in improving the ionic chemical's treatment or as effective in improving the color fastness to light. 5. New rayon fiber's color fastness to washing according to the concentration of the cation agent, it is 1 to 2 grades without major changes. new rayon fiber's color fastness to light according to the the increase of concentration of the cation agent, all of color fastness to light is 1 grade. the cation agents were not as effective in improving the ionic chemical's treatment or as effective in improving the color fastness to washing, light.